I have an 11th gen intel board in the Cooler Master board case running Windows 11. I attempted the windows based BIOS update from 3.17 to 3.23. It looked like it was working as it should but at the end the board appeared to shut down. I let it sit for over an hour just to make sure it wasn’t doing something in the background.
Just sitting there the diagnostic lights show solid Blue and Green as they usually do when it is shut down and connected to power.
Booting up I get solid green light for about 25 seconds.
Next it goes solid blue and green for about 10 seconds.
It then flashes the following lights. 12 green 1 red 2 green 1 blue 4 green 1 blue.
It goes back to solid blue and green for about 10 seconds.
It then goes to solid Red and Blue for about 90 seconds at which time the fan slowly spins up.
Then it appears to shut down and go back to solid green and blue.
I have kept it connected to power and just wondering if anyone has any ideas. It was a mystery box board so just looking for help before it becomes e-waste.
The firmware update has TWO PD updates. If you look at the firmware page, it has an ASCII art of two passes.
Have the HDMI in the rear and power in the front of the same side. (I started on the Left side)
After it reboots, during the color blink codes, put the HDMI in the other side’s rear socket. You should get video. Then you can watch the boot loop.
Then when it reboot, pull the power. Plug it into the front port on the other side with the HDMI. Power it up. You’ll then see it updating PD2 (or PD1 depending on the side you started with.)
I had the same challenge with mine going from 3.07 to 3.23. I’ve still to do 3.23 to 3.24 … that’s a tomorrow update.
Once complete and back into Windows, you may find your Keyboard/Mouse or so non reponsive. Once into Windows, I ended up pulling the power. Putting my HDMI back to the rear left, power to front left, and key/mouse in rear right. After booting, it’s operational once more. One finally reboot … pressing F2 … and the BIOS shows me on 3.23. WOOT !!!
Again, I’ll take it to 3.24 tomorrow - starting with the left side connected. Then switching sides to the right side.
Hope this helps.
P.S. When checking the BIOS is 3.23, go into Advanced, then set Standalone Operation to Enabled. It speed up your reboots as it doesn’t bother to check things like the battery, case open, etc.
This solved my issue! Thanks Mark_S! I let it do a cycle connected to one side. When it shut down I pulled power, swapped it to the other side, and then it booted normally.
With the headless Gen 11’s, if you don’t get video or it’s being persnickety, move the HDMI & power to the side and reboot. The left and right halves are not connected.
