Welp, the drive over heated only after 40 minutes of recording at Q0. Need to find that heat sink material.
Contact framework and they could sort you out
@Josh_Cook, nah I wonât bother framework with this. I just hope that future ssd orders come with a thermal pad in the bag thatâs all.
I plan to get this one off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GP-Ultimate-Installation-Conductivity/dp/B08PKF9316
Also, for my use case, Iâm going to get some aluminium heatsinks and build an enclosure for the drive.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-10x35x35mm-Aluminum-Heatsink-Adhesive/dp/B08HLZXC64/
Hopefully I can make some sort of cold shoe mount that will attach the drive to camera cage.
More welp, the drive over heated instantly today when I was trying to record in the already hot day inside of the car. Nothing was written to the disk
Now all storage expansion cards come with a thermal pad preapplied.
And failure. It will not record at 60fps. At 25 fps it gets to 45°C at the heat sink
Was worth a try.
My thermal pad arrived finally, now if only I could get the lid to slide off
@yessikg - the guide that nrp linked above:
has steps to remove the lid. It takes a fair bit of pressure, but if you follow the steps in the guide it will come off.
It can be very hard to slide the covers off the first time, maybe use some rubber bands or double sided tape to give you more friction.
@Nich_Trimble is correct. First remove the two screws at the USB-C connector end. Then hold the card with the USB-C end pointing up, and the aluminum side facing away from you. Squeeze the card fairly firmly (you donât want to crack it, but itâs more than a gentle squeeze), and push with your thumbs hard towards the USB-C connector end. The lid has âhookâ-shaped connectors that will disengage, allowing you access to the board inside. Take your time, proceed deliberately, use tape or rubber bands if you need additional friction between your thumbs and the card, and you will get it eventually. Hang in there, youâll get it.
@yessikg, I just use a small flat head screwdriver.
Update on the heat sink - It turns out that perhaps the adhesive tape was not thermally conductive enough. Instead, I made a hairpin cotter to hold the heatsink firmly to the case without an adhesive
And low it works much better on the camera! I am able to get 5 to 1 compression at 60fps sustained. I suppose when itâs inside the framework bay, the cassis helps keep it cooler than if itâs just outside in the environment.
@nrp The guide that covers this postâs topic is not updated to account for the thermal paste that the Framework marketplace now sells. Also, a lot of the guides donât point to the appropriate parts. Replacing the webcam, for example, only has the screwdriver.