Thanks! Not working yet. I’ve been chatting with support, but so far both issues remain: plastic lid attached = fully dead machine, plastic lid off = no video. It sounds like as of last night they no longer think it is user-error. They just had me send them the log from the serial port, which interestingly enough shows that the board does manage to boot all the way to a login prompt when the plastic lid is off.
One quick note: I 3D printed an enclosure (instead of the Cooler Master one) to test, and when I put it together, the power button on the 3D printed part was pressing hard against the little power button on the motherboard—meaning I couldn’t turn the machine on.
I’m wondering if when you have the lid on, if the power button is getting held down, maybe?
I had to sand away a tiny bit of my 3D printed power button (so it would float just above the power button on the board), before it would function and let me boot the thing with the enclosure fully assembled.
Edit: Also, what port are you plugging your monitor into? I have an HDMI module plugged in to the top left (looking at your picture above), and that’s the only port where I get video out; I think it’s the only one that routes DP alt mode out through the USB-C port, the other ports probably won’t work.
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@Tom1 here is the guide on github Framework/FML13V03 at main · DC-DeepComputing/Framework · GitHub, matching what Jeff said @geerlingguy
Thanks for the debugging suggestions! It looks like my first issue (no video out) was caused by the included hub being defective. I got no video out with the included hub, and no video out on my Lenovo thunderbolt 4 dock connected to my monitor with displayport, but when I dug out a cheap Aukey type-c to HDMI+USB-A adapter and plugged that in, I started getting video! That old Aukey adapter has atrocious coil whine so I’ll need to find another solution, but at least that proved that the riscv board works.
As for my power button, it looks like it might be the opposite issue. Since I had the board running, I decided to re-attached the top plastic lid while it was running, and nothing happened. It didn’t turn off (which I would expect if the plunger was holding the power button down). I tried pressing the button but nothing happened. So I opened the case and put a tiny piece of cardboard over the switch and re-attached the lid. Now the power button worked as expected. So it does seem to be something physical. I guess either the switch on the board or the plunger on the case is in the wrong place, or the switch on the board or the plunger on the case is not tall enough.
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Warning to buyers: Check your wifi card! The product page states this product comes with the AX210 which supports wifi 6E but my board arrived with the AX200 which only supports wifi 6.
Um….
Let me know your order please 
by drop sales@deepcomputing.io
It’s not acceptable if shipped different from the description.
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Can you post an picture here and indicating the problems please
The post hard to illustrate the exact problems that we can understand.
I sent you my order number in a private message.
As for the picture, I was able to get the coolermaster case button to “work” by placing this green piece of cardboard over the switch. While the cardboard is there, I cannot screw the case back together because of the extra height added by the cardboard. It was just an experiment to prove that there is a physical issue either in the motherboard or the coolermaster case that I received.
um….let us review that…to get to the root causes. probably coolermaster, you are the only one reporting this issue.
get back to you very soon.