I had started adding a few links to builds based on the Framework Desktop mainboard (that don’t use the Framework case) in another thread but, perhaps a seperate thread is better.
So, this thread as part show case, part lessons learned and learning, and part inspiration. If you’ve built using the mainboard perhaps you could add to the thread by including build details (case, psu, wifi card etc.), learnings, and some photos (or links to photos). Thanks!
Things do get rather crispy during prolonged full GPU load (gaming or non-stop LLM usage) as the whole heat sink can heat up to around 65°C. That might take a toll on the longevity of these components, especially the capacitors but I will see. Under normal other cirumstances than continuous full load everything stays pretty cool.
I’m starting on a project that will involve watercooling the framework motherboard and getting the ram modules isn’t hard but getting the VRM is obviously not as straightforward.
Since I don’t have the machining capabilities to make a cold plate with high fin density I was planning to salvage one from another block… that’s obviously not going to be big enough to hit the RAM and definitely not the VRM. The RAM I was thinking about getting an EPYC heatsink with a vapor chamber and effectively modify it to where I can put the vapor chamber between the RAM/CPU and the waterblock… but again doesn’t solve my VRM cooling issue.
I have been thinking about either just attaching and bending a heatpipe from the VRMs to the CPU block, making a second custom channel of cooling, or just slapping on a heatsink and making sure it has some airflow.
You’ll likely be fine just using an appropriately sized copper shim with paste/putty on either side for the vrms. Somewhat worse than custom waterblock but a lot better than just slapping heatsinks on there and hoping it gets enough airflow.
Why would a copper shim be better than a heatsink strip across the VRM row? Cooling for those low wattage components is all about the surface area. The heat transfer through the metal won’t be the limiting factor. Maybe, with little to no airflow one has to compromise on less surface and wide fin spacing but either way it should be better at cooling than a simple shim.
Anyhow, I would guess that either heatsink as well as sufficiently sized shim should be sufficient to prevent excessive heating up of the VRM. At least for 100W sustained. Not sure how it behaves at 120 or 140W sustained. I would get a thermal camera and check the VRM during stress test.
Some form of metal tentacle that reaches both the vrms and the block, if he is using an epyc waterblock as a base there should not be too much distance to cover.
Yeah I’m just wondering if that metal tentacle needs to be a heat pipe or not… but I guess I could put a heatsink on top of the shim too, that way it has its own cooling but also has cooling via the block…
Well 3rd time’s the try (technically 4th, because I broke one trying to remove the octagon’s support block thing)
3d printed to check fitment, but yeah. Plan would be to put the coldplate of the waterblock in that slightly recessed octagon.
I’ve been looking the cost of doing it in copper… 50$+ for a .25”x5”x5” sheet seems to be the market rate for copper, so that’s not happening, this will have to be aluminum… at least with aluminum I can get it thicker and mill some heatsink fins into the VRM section to add with heat dissipation in that region. (Also, while I’ve done copper on my hobbiest CNC it’s kind of outside the normal range of what the machine is supposed to be capable of doing, so risk of messing it up is high)
I’m planning to start a build log probably this weekend, I’ll include one on this forum because this project will be fun and silly, and idk, maybe you all will get a kick out of it and continue to offer (what I hope is) good advice.
I’m very interested how this turns out, while I’m fully satisfied with the HDplex 250W GaN on my Desktop board I’m always on the lookout for silent ATX PSU solutions, especially external bricks.
I thought the HDplex DC-DC-Converters came with a DC cable with special connector while your brick has a normal barrel plug, did yours come with a matching cable or did you have to get one separately?