11th gen and was following steps on here Fully Resetting the Mainboard State - Framework Guides when I got to the remove coin battery step I decided to use spudger to try to remove it but when I did it didn’t feel like battery popped out. Did I break it?
Well I can’t tell from the image, and there are quite a few topics on this with maybe pictures.
See
Did you see this guide ?
Note that the coin cell receptacle is extremely fragile, so you should use the procedure below with a pin or SIM card eject tool while the system is shut down.
The socket doesn’t appear broken. In my image the battery socket appears hanging like the soder came off of the orange part. Or is it supposed to be hanging? How will I know if the battery soder is broken like I am thinking?
Questions: Why’s your hand in the photo? Was there a need for it? Like were you trying to hold something in place? Something came loose?
Have you not searched the forum more ? I have just read this . . .
Did you read post 10 of the topic I mentioned earlier
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I’m the author of one of the broken battery holder posts above - It took me the longest time to figure out the battery replacement wasn’t seating - because the holder developed a hairline crack in one of the side arms that meant it wasn’t engaging. GENTLY take the battery out and GENTLY flex the edge clip plastic with a pair of tweezers to see if cracks appear. Can’t stress the need to be delicate enough here- That holder is too small for the battery, so it’s already doing overtime.
If the battery (Or battery replacement) isn’t staying seated, you’ll see behavior like long POSTing to the bios screen and difficulty in getting to the bios configuration, because the CMOS is getting corrupted/wiped every time you unplug it. This will be intermittent because the tolerances between the coin holder and the keyboard are so tight that it will kind of hold the broken battery holder in place.
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Yeah I was trying to show it was hanging off. After some use I think it is broken
I didn’t see that. Sorry
Yeah, when I come back to the laptop after a day the date and time are all messed up. Now it won’t sync with the internet so I will have to fix it
Do you all think I need to by a new cmos battery and socket? Or do I just need to resolder the current one? Any idea what caused my original issue where I needed to reset the cmos battery on my laptop?
You can reply to several people in a single post by highlighting their text, which brings up a quote option.
Are you using the original cmos battery that came with your 11th gen intel?
Maybe it’s not holding enough charge anymore & needs to be replaced.
Also, if you haven’t seen, the 11th gen has an issue where the cmos battery will run down if the laptop is left off a charger for long enough. Running li-ions down low enough degrades the battery so it can no longer hold as much charge. Framework will send you a replacement coin cell, regardless of the warranty period being over for the 11th gen.
Also see Rework Instructions for 11th Gen Mainboards to enable powering the RTC circuit from the main battery
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It bears noting that you need either a functional socket to make the RTC replacement module work, or be willing to somehow solder it directly in place, which means you will have to unsolder it or disconnect the mains battery to reset the CMOS.
For just a replacement coin cell, you need a functional battery holder.
For the battery replacement module, you really don’t need an intact battery holder. You already need to be able to solder to install the module. So you can just get some silicone wire and connect the module to the positive and negative battery contacts. Easier than soldering in a replacement the battery holder.
The RTC battery replacement module is just allowing the circuit to be powered from the laptop’s main li-ion battery. Unpluging the main battery is not hard.
I looked at that as an option, and given the density of the board population and the tolerences in the space, I didn’t agree - have you actually done it yourself that way, and do you have any tips about how to get it to fit without knocking something else off the board?
I haven’t done it. But the board has to be clear under the battery holder for it to fit there, is it not? Removing a broken battery holder is easier than soldering a new surface mount one in place. Given the options of either trying to solder down a new surface mount battery holder or just two wires, the latter seems easier. And once you have the RTC replacement module, you have little need for an actual battery holder. What’s the point.