I’ll also say this: all of you love the silver enclosures, currently my ratio is about 8:1:1 for all of my orders, silver, black, white, and these boards are still my best selling, while being the cheapest
Hi,
I’m from Belgium, do you still happen to have one?
Would love to buy one from you?
Y.
Sorry for asking here, but how can we reach out to you? My order was sent back due to an issue at PostNL, and would love to discuss the next steps. For your reference, order #364.
All e-mail addresses I’ve found bounce.
josh_cook@i2clabs.com.au will work, and I actually have your order that was returned to me.
If you could let me know where you found the other email addresses, that would be great!
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This is an amazing device but i think the pcb should be revised to use castellated pads and not this fiddly soldering with pins its quite aggravating to try to keep the pins in place when soldering the other side of the pin even when using soldering tricks like bluetack.
castellated pads would solve all this frustration just place the dongle pcb under the current one on some blue tack and tack the pads down from the donglehider+ down to the dongle and done. none of this fiddly stuff with loose pins in very close proximity
I am not sure if that would work, but depending on the license, you’re free to make your own version.
It would also be great if the PCB would be revised to fit into the Framework USBA Chassis.
It would definitely work not sure why it wouldn’t.
I understand why he designed it this way now and its because of the 2 sets of pads for 2 dongles which maybe still possible with 2 sets of castellated pads on each side but honestly trying to fit two dongles would be difficult even with its current design.
Still my opinion that that the soldering much easier and a breeze with castellated pads vs trying to use pins like the current design
Castellations would be possible for one set of pads.
You can view the board layers without downloading & pulling up kicad by using this browser-based Kicad viewer kicanvas.org - DongleHiderPlus_PCB
Not sure what you mean by this, though.
The metal would likely interfere with the signal.
The one set of castellated pads at the edge of the thin part of the pcb on the right side and another set at the left side of that strip just in reverse order and on the bottom of the pcb then you would solder 1 dongle under and one dongle on top of the stack just turned over. It of course depends on the dongles used
How thick is the PCB for these? I think that’s one crucial piece of information that I wasn’t able to find anywhere… ‘typical’ 1.6mm thick 4-layer boards are far too thick for the USB-C connector specified in the BOM provided by LeoDJ. I’m guessing 0.8 or 1.0mm perhaps?
0.8mm
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