So, to get it working for debian 11, i had to download the firmare-realtek package from debian/sid, install that manually add the udev file from Realtek’s driver to /etc/udev/rules.d/50-usb-realtek-net.rules and now i have a happily working nic, whereas before it was sadness and repeat blinks. (also, used the wrong driver, cdc_ncm instead of realtek’s)
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JFYI, the ethernet expansion card works out-of-the-box with recent Haiku nightlies (at least for a couple of minutes) - fortunately, because for the installation to the internal SSD from an anyboot image which needed an update, the Intel AX210 was recognized but couldn’t find a single SSID out of 20+ near me (for some reason, it does after installation).
It’s provided as a .tar.bz2 compressed archive with source code inside.
Decompress it, get into the directory and:
./configure
make
make install
That’s for Linux Mint/Ubuntu/Debian, I think it should work for Fedora as well.
Also the ReadMe says:
For Fedora, you may have to run the following command after installing the
driver.
# dracut -f
For what it’s worth, I’ve done extensive power tests with powerstat. It does many samples (e.g. every 10 seconds over 5 minutes) after a settle down period, so you can really do good comparisons. My test procedure is basically:
xset 600 3 && sudo true && xbacklight -set 0 && sudo powerstat ; xbacklight -set 100
… that is:
- extend the timeout of the screen saver so it doesn’t affect tests
- prime the
sudopassword before disabling the backlight - run the actual tests
- turn the backlight back on
You can run this test in your normal GUI, but I also recommend turning off everything you can to remove noise. Ideally, you’d run those tests in single-user mode (systemctl rescue + pkill -u 1000 or shutdown now if you’re not using systemd), but that makes it harder to control backlight.
At the very least make sure to remove all other modules first. Run a test without the module (to get a baseline) and with the module.
HTH!
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The driver date is just the original date of the first version of the driver. The driver version windows installs is from this year indicated by the .2022. That is the best driver to use. I updated to the latest driver from Realteck and it killed the NIC performance by 93%
Yet another application for the ethernet expansion card: installing OpenBSD. Release 7.1 (at the moment still the latest one) doesn’t work with the Intel AX210 wifi card, only the recent snapshots do - as well as probably release 7.2 (coming this month?). However, it is still useful since you don’t have to download the iwx firmware for the AX210 in advance.
The driver page captured in the youtube video (timestamped below) doesn’t show the RTL8156:
The 8156 driver page should be this:
https://www.realtek.com/en/component/zoo/category/network-interface-controllers-10-100-1000m-gigabit-ethernet-usb-3-0-software
Should be 10.54.20 (screenshot), and not 10.60 (from the video)
I installed the correct version, I think I just grabbed the wrong screencap for the B-Roll. The 10.54.20 version knocked the speed test results from 1400 Mbps to something like 98 Mbps on Win 10.
Yeah, I thought that was a possibility…
Did you try any other previous version(s) between what’s included in Windows 10 and something lower than 10.54.20?
For example, there’s 10.50.20 from Targus:
Drivers & Downloads | DOCK423 | Targus USA
No I just rolled ot back to the Windows installed version as it worked at basically full speed. I’ll take a closer look at the Linux drivers when I get a chance.
Got my Ethernet expansion card when it first dropped. Been trying to get it to work ever since which includes:
- Installing drivers
- Updating kernals (from 5.13 to 5.17 to 6.0)
- Switching OS (from Manjaro to Fedora 37)
- …And following some other advice on this thread.
I can’t seem to get more than a little blip from the lights. It works when I boot with the card plugged in, but just plugging it in, I get nothing.
I’ve been using a no-name-Amazon Ethernet to USB-C dongle for almost a year without trouble. All my other expansion cards work in every slot (USB-A, USB-C, DisplayPort, HDMI, Micro SD).
Is the card wrong, or am I? Should something that’s advertised as being a simple plug-and-play solution be this difficult? Any help would be much appreciated.
@mackncheesiest did you ever resolve this? My adapter worked for a long while, but when I tried it tonight, it’s exactly like you reported. Front ports, status lights would flicker, but the laptop wouldn’t see it. Rear ports it would see it, but never detected a cable was inserted.
I was able to resolve all of this; reinstalled the driver using the commands listed above. Restarted the laptop. Now it works in either port. I assume the driver was removed during a kernel update.
Yeah, in my case, it ended up being a combination of a board swap through support (which made the device enumerate fine in the front ports) and disabling NetworkManager’s MAC Address Randomization for that interface. It was seemingly causing DHCP negotiation to fail.
I had, at some point, set Network Manager to use ethernet.cloned-mac-address=random. Even using ethernet.cloned-mac-address=stable didn’t work as, even though the address is stable, it is distinct from the hardware MAC. Once I set it to preserve and cleared out all nmcli connection entries for the card + an entry for it that had populated into /var/lib/NetworkManager/no-auto-default.state, it worked fine across all my ports.
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Unless I’m mistaken, it honestly sounds to me like you’re better off just buying a USB Ethernet adapter. That big protrusion is a likely point of failure, and especially if it’s pulling 2.7W idle, I’d like to be able to detach it. The expansion cards aren’t that easy to swap, unfortunately.
Hi everyone,
I have a small issue where I purchased a Framework in the 1st gen era (feels like a lifetime ago) but now they don’t accept my card or billing address and I wanted one of these ethernet expansion cards.
Would any of you be so kind as to $ell me one?
Really? What problems do you have. I have (USBC, 256Dive, USB A, Micro Sd) all of which can be removed with no problems. Press on the button and they can be slid out ?
They’re notoriously stiff.
When I travel, I’m at a different hotel basically every day and working on the train in between on batteries. So I’d end up having to insert and remove it quite frequently.
I’m sure some will be, given the tolerance in manufacture. MIne’s an batch 8 11Gen and has always been fine.
Is it difficult sliding them out and/or is the button not easily pressed or maybe disengaging clearly.
I mean, if they slide in easily then there is likely a problem with the button not disengaging well enough.
It’s the same as in the videos in that link. They don’t slide out easily. It takes a lot of force to get them out initially.
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