You should absolutely eject any removable storage, as it might not be configured for “fast removal.” If you confirm that it is configured for fast removal, you can remove it without ejecting it.
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No and yes. If it is configured for fast removal, it does not mean that under all circumstances (even during read/write operations) removing the drive will not corrupt the drive. It just means that the drive will be ok if there are no write operations the drive can be removed because the cache (which require power) is not utilized. It will usually be a minor corruption (if any), but it could be worse.
When you eject a drive in Windows, Windows will first check to see if there is any read/write operation (and attempts to stop it, which usually fails), and then it will “demount”/uninstall (different from uninstalling a driver) the device/drive (which basically remove it from “list of attached system resource” so it can no longer be accessed). Then it sends a “stop” command to the device (which may or may not power off), and then it says “you can safely remove the device”.
Mac operates similarly, although I think it demounts instead of tries to stop read/write.
The reason you can’t eject the SD card on its own is because Windows see the entire SDcard+reader as one “mass storage device” instead of a “USB Card Reader” with an “eMMC card” attached underneath it. As a result, it will stop the entire “mass storage device” rather than stopping the eMMC card. And it will refuse to install/connect the SD card reader until it sensed that the device is unplugged and plugged in.
Usually, more “fancy” readers (such as new ones from SSK and Kingston) have them configured as a “card reader” while some old/cheap ones have them configured as “mass storage devices” that merely translates the read/write operations.
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I made a copy of this - for me, thanks to the work and writing here, I was able to “just buy the adapter” basically. Bought that item on Amazon, then printed the bracket, chopped the edges off with some tin snips, and jammed it in there. Works a perfect treat. Twitter’s eating it up 
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Small problem: that awesome card reader seems to inhibit “Modern Standby” (reason number ten-billion why “modern standby” sucks and is just a wallpapering-over of lazy/bad coders that can’t implement proper sleep in their drivers)
Was just digging into why this dang thing is chewing through 3.5W on average while in sleep. A simple sleep study report revealed this, right off the bat.
Gonna try taking out that SD expansion card. Big sad. All just because we can’t have nice things (real standby) anymore on modern laptops, it seems…
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What software did you use for this report?
Windows’ built-in utility.
- Open an admin command prompt
- Navigate to your desktop or whereever (
cd %userprofile%\Desktop) - Use powercfg to generate a report (
powercfg /sleepstudy) - it uses historic data to generate the report, happens instantly - Open the resulting report (
start sleepstudy-report.html) - Review results etc
For reference, mW is 1/1000th a watt (1000mW = 1W). mWh (1000mW for 30 minutes = 500mWh) is a measure of capacity (like gallons of water, vs. water flow rate as watts). 3 watts is really terri-bad for sleep power consumption! 1W is relatively typical, but still on the high side (my laptops from 2013-ish have a similar figure).
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Ah, okay - I thought it was some Linux tool.
On Linux, we can use powertop for a similar assessment (as well as auto-tuning if you so desire).
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don’t the USB bus power down in sleep?
Or is this reason 10,000,000,001 we shouldn’t have modern standby?
Can’t you turn off “additional sleep states” in bios?
lol nope. The computer doesn’t “actually sleep” at all. I’ve closed the computer, it went to “sleep”, carried it over to the printer I use via USB, plugged it in, and the printer spooled up and spat out my queued print job (as I intended to do, but was amused it worked that way).
Modern Standby is massively frustrating. Mine is going to hibernate about 3-5 times a day now, automatically, because modern standby hits its battery-consumption threshold (I disabled the hibernate-related timers). That’s 3-5 write cycles of multiple GB on the SSD, triggered only by sucking down too much battery in fake sleep.
I think I remember seeing something about that! Next time I reboot (… weeks later, lol), I’ll have to look into that!
(I desperately wish we could just have regular standby again)
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You can change that in power options in (old control panel)
No, you can’t. Believe me, I’m not new to this.
Hibernate is integral to Modern Standby, and the only option you can control is the fixed hibernate timer - “hibernate after # minutes”. Mine is set to “never”. The thing about “modern standby” is that it doesn’t go to sleep at all - it just, basically, turns off the screen… and hopes nothing will chew through CPU. Then, it places a “budget” on the battery percentage - if it drops more than, say, 5%, it’ll go to hibernate. Whether you like it or not.
Mine now does that several times a day - because I never shut it down, I use sleep. With my other laptops (like the 2013 Latitude E7440 I’m typing on now), I can close the lid, walk away, come back literally 24 hours later, and it’s lost a few percent battery. Framework and Modern Standby, though - it’ll chew through that in 2 hours and drop to hibernate while I’m simply away from it (e.g. using this computer instead).
(insert “orders of magnitude more effort to refute BS than to produce it” image here. I wish people would phrase uncertain things like “can’t you just change that in power options” instead of stating it matter-of-factly)
BTW, I also just checked the BIOS. No options to use other sleep states. Though there is an option for how to handle idle threads… I switched that to “HALT”. Guess we’ll see how that works
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hm.
you can try powercfg and turn hibernation off.
currently both of my machine I think have modern standby however I both set them to “never” hibernate", that closing the lid do not put the computer to sleep, disabke fast startup (among others), and they seem to be able to sleep indefinitely (6 hours and beyond) while consuming not a lot of battery
However, I know of at least 1 Realtek controller that doesn’t like this (and will refuse to turn off).
Thanks for the guide @Lee_Holbrook! I actually did end up buying and printing the enclosure out. The end result is workable but not perfect. The SD pcb even after being filed down aggressively pushes against the expansion card. This isn’t a problem when putting the card into the laptop but it has been an issue for putting it in expansion card holders. Mine actually pushed the expansion card ends slightly apart. This is soo close. I wonder if removing the giant metal shield will improve this design
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you can’t as the “giant metal shield” is the “socket” (receptacle) where the card will sit in.
As I listed above there is another type of socket (that don’t have the metal tabs sideways) that, if installed, will make a actual design feasible.
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Seems to be the RTS5329 altho the pcb and some other site called it the RTS5129 (I think its just a series with very similiar specs.)
wrong usb plug but this board has U3 populated (probably with code for the micro instead getting it from the driver)
I have no clue, no datasheets nor flashdump. but might allow the controller to function outside an OS and maybe support better sleepmodes? speculation.
https://docs.rs-online.com/d5b8/A700000006625768.pdf (sorry just boring specsheet for a usb c dongle)
Lists this as incorperated in their dongle, and RTS5420 as an USB hub. I start to think to maybe design a dongle myself, just not sure what I need more, SD cards or something else 
and eh… is easy availeble to me mortal consumer.
EDIT: Hama sells a similiar one: Hama USB 3.0 UHS-II SD Card Reader Review with memory card read and write speed benchmark tests - Camera Memory Speed Comparison & Performance tests for SD and CF cards
I might be able to get those more easily here. wrong plug again tho.
U3 is most likely some sort of a voltage regulator.
the RTS5169 - REALTEK is the USB 2.0 version. Most likely they use an upgraded version that support USB 3.0
Wow Realtek website is so rubbish
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I see the post is a bit of a mess, the top link I spot a U4, no U3, the lowest url has a U3 populated and its a https://www.fmsh.com/nvm/FM25F01_ds_eng.pdf FM25F01 1Mbit serial flash (matching the 4 atleast pins) I think I ment that U3.
And yeah they might have been using a upgraded IC that basicly is the same but a newer faster usb controller thingy on the die
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I made a modified version of the expansion card to fit it the SD card better:
https://www.printables.com/model/316209-framework-laptop-improved-sd-expansion-card
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still havent found one for sale local or easily for me. did find a brand and product page: Delock Products 91498 Delock USB Type-C™ SDHC / SDXC UHS-II / MMC Single Slot Card Reader
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