Not under stock conditions and that was also not drawn that was package power, what was actually drawn in this case was a lot more.
I don’t see the relevance as the issue was just indicating what power could be drawn to assess the wattage of a power bank for any use.
and especially to @jookra
That is exactly that makes my numbers pretty much irrelevant to this discussion, they can only be achieved if you actively try to really hard (you have to really go out of your way and do some pretty sketchy stuff to bypass that). The stock config will limit you to less than 30W sustained pretty much no matter what you do.
Above 45W powerbank should be able to get a bit of charging in even under full load. I did test a whole bunch of power-banks myself during the pd mess with the embedded controller and now all pd power-banks I have work just fine down to the 18W ones, 5V unfortunately still doesn’t work without kick-starting.
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From my experience using a laptop that can only draw 60w (my old one), only powerbanks capable of 100w here worth of using, and the 65w and 45w ones were incapable of delivering the rated power for more than 15 minutes. They always overheated.
From my experience there are bad ones in all size classes, I have 100W ones that can barely sustain 60 and 18W ones that’ll do 20W all day long. It’s less about the size and more about how it’s done. The one I mainly carry for laptop use is 65W and it’ll do that till it’s empty.
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Yeap! Quality over quantity it’s always the same. More so if you don’t try to skimp on finances
Important not the connect quality and price too hard though, some of my best performers are the cheapest of the cheap chinesium and I have dealt with some pretty awful “premium” “brand name” ones.
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