This morning when I had to plug in AC power to boot, the Windows clock was set to a whole day before - which is making me suspect my RTC battery has gone bad. I’ll need to take my multimeter to it to confirm.
Support is risking doing more harm than good. I’ve never touched the battery in the year that I’ve owned the Framework, yet they’re insisting that I remove the battery and photograph for bent pins. They’re also having me photograph for damage of the RTC battery holder when, again, I haven’t touched the RTC battery holder. I installed RAM and an SSD upon receipt and then closed the laptop up. Like @Christopher_Martin, I suspect that my RTC battery is not holding a charge any more.
You can test the BIOS|RTC battery with a voltmeter, When charged it would read around 3V if charged regularly as in daily. Maybe 2.8V if charged once every week and maybe 2.5V after two weeks without charge etc
When I updated the bios using the EFI shell method, I ran into an issue where the left 2 USB-C ports stopped working completely (no charge indicator light when plugged in on that side, and my mouse wouldn’t work either). Looking at the output of the updated as it ran, the issue happened when it was updating the EC Firmware for PD2. The output showed “failed” when it was flashing that part of the firmware, though everything else in the update succeeded.
I swapped the charging cable to the other side of the laptop (with the working ports).
Then, I fixed the issue by running the bios flash again, it succeeded in updating the firmware after the second time.
In case anyone else is running into this issue, you might try this as a solution.
I went from BIOS ver 3.00 to 3.10.
The old 11th gen RTC curse seems to be claiming more as time goes on.
By RTC or do you mean the ML1220 issue i.e. the battery not the clock? if so that has nothing to do with the BIOS so how can it be related
secondly what is the ‘more’ that you are noticing?
Maybe by the fact that the same battery stores BIOS settings?
I mean it has nothing to do with the BIOS version. I.E. with any version, if the ML1220 discharges, both the RTC and BIOS fail.
So this topic titled BIOS 3.10 realease has nothing to do with functioning of the ML1220 ~ hence also, my query, what does ‘more’ refer to.
Confirmed. 2.3v on the ML1220 though I fully charged the main battery yesterday. Time to order a disposable ML1220!
Fully charging the main battery does not effect the ML 1220
The ML1220 requires the best part of a day to be fully charged whereas the main battery depending upon the level at the start may only take one hour.
The laptop needs to be plugged in for a day then check the voltage.
Further check the contacts as the ML 1220 may not be charging.
A voltage of 2.3V after charging for some time indicates a poor connection not a poor battery.
A poor dead battery will either show 2V or will show 3V but discharge quickly.
Still it won’t hurt to try a new ML1220
All the best
Is this the place to report firmware bugs, or is there somewhere else?
BUG: Running firmware 3.10. With Boot → “Quiet Boot” set to “Disabled”, when I hit F3 while booting (attempting to access EFI boot menu), the system hangs.
Also, why can’t I modify the order in “EFI Boot Order” in the Setup Utility? That feature is not very useful w/o that capability, IMO.
@bmcdonnell Thanks for reporting the quiet boot issue, this is a known issue that we will fix.
You can adjust the boot order, by first adjusting the Boot>New Boot device Priority [Auto, First, Last] from Auto. Then you can go into the boot order setting and change your boot order.
@Kieran_Levin thanks for the quick and informative feedback.
I can see now how it makes sense that you can’t manually order what you’ve set to be automatically ordered. Consider maybe adding a hint in the UI to that effect? On the “EFI Boot Order” screen, when greyed out due to auto ordering.
Hello. I updated to bios 3.10 on my i7-1165G Framework Laptop and I am having the weird issue where after a few hours of being off, the computer won’t turn on until I plug it into a charger.
@Twilighttony I had the same issue and the CMOS battery was indeed almost dead, it lost its charge after about 1 week with the laptop powered off. Support confirmed this was the curlprit and sent me a new cell.
My laptop is an i5-1135G7 from Batch 5 (September 2019).
Buy several CMOS batteries. You’ll need em! At least always carry a new spare with you.
Yes the ML 1220 requires charging for some 6 to 9 hours a week by being plugged in else the battery degrades quite quickly.
See the following link and topic for detailed info and the following post in this topic for a link to the DIY mod if you are up to it.
Moved to a different thread. See