I need to constantly reset the mainboard of my Framework. If I leave it off for just 1 day, then it does not boot. It does not charge. If I try to turn it on nothing happens. There are not leds turning on. The power buttons does not light-up. Nothing seems to work and the only solution is to reset the mainboard. But this is crazy. I can not reset the mainboard every other day. Is there a solution or a definite fix?
This is a known issue with the Intel 11 gen and this setup. The ML1220 battery for the CMOS (BIOS) and the RTC (real time clock) at best only has three weeks of charge.
That is if
a) the contacts are good so it is getting charged properly
b) the ML1220 is in ‘good’ condition, it can be tested with a voltmeter
c) the ML 1220 is fully charged which requires soem 24hrs of being plugged in
and in general use it requires up to 9 hours of being plugged in per week.
I had to reset my 11th Gen framework board exactly 1 time. Same symptoms as described by @Cimmino_Anna right after delivery in March 2022. Later in June I preventively ordered an new ML 1220.
Until now it simply works reliably. I use my machine almost regularly only once a week, charge it after work for an hour and put it in its case.
I would recommend to get a new ML 1220, set the charging limit at 80% at BIOS level and let it initially charge for 24h.
I’ve been having a similar experience, @Cimmino_Anna. Usually I’m lucky enough to get it powered up with the charger, but it’s required popping open to reset the mainboard a couple times recently. I’m expecting the delivery of an FDK (Fujitsu) brand ML1220 battery to replace the one currently on my mainboard, estimated delivery is Saturday. I’ll report back on whether this improves the situation.
I agree it’s not reasonable to have to reset the mainboard with any degree of frequency, especially every other day. It took about a year for me to start experiencing this issue, if a new ML1220 can solve the problem for another year it’s better than nothing. Certainly it’s better than support’s suggestion to buy another mainboard (which, of course, would eventually have the same issue and also cost 35 to 50 times as much).
I think the idea is that you buy the 12th Gen main board, where a) apparenlty the Intel issue with 11th Gen doesn’t exist and b) The ML1220 can be charged from the main battery so doesn’t need plugging in to charge.
@amoun You might be right in that it’s a permanent solution, but support didn’t express this reasoning to me, only “You may purchase a mainboard through the Marketplace.”
I still think that if an 11th gen mainboard has a good battery mount, replacing the ML1220 is a better solution than replacing the whole mainboard, both in terms of cost and the spirit of repairability. Why waste a good 11th gen board over a potentially borderline issue?
@Cimmino_Anna I received the battery on Saturday as expected. I replaced the ML1220, following the steps in the mainboard reset guide. After confirming functionality I allowed it to charge throughout Christmas. It’s only been a couple days, but replacing the CMOS battery with a fresh one seems to have alleviated the need to frequently reset the mainboard or plug in to power on.
This issue has really depleted a lot of my enthusiasm for a device I once really liked, but I’m glad to report it seems to be working as expected once again. It’s inconvenient to have to replace that battery once every (in my anecdotal experience) year or so, but at least it’s quick and inexpensive. I’d recommend anybody with a board in good condition gives this a shot before replacing the mainboard. I’ll report back in the future with my experience on whether it’s a lasting solution.
The constantly blinking red LEDs was somewhat of a scare but it seems to have worked. I have ordered more because I am not going through that again in a year…
Thank you both. I’ll order a new battery asap. It’s an easy (and cheap) test to do. I too am a bit frustrated with this problem. It has stopped me from enjoying my shinny new laptop and from suggesting friends and colleague to buy it as well.
If there’s a multimeter at hand you could test the battery voltage beforehand. I couldn’t get mine past 1.7V after 72h. The new battery came with 2.7, while 2V is minimum needed I believe. Nominal voltage is 3V