There are also flash drives that have the same form factor as the Logitech unifying receiver.
@Edward_Gray yeah but there are already storage modules for sale from frame.work, so i’m not really interested in that part. But yeah it could be used for that.
@Ecca i have a spare unifying receiver laying around, when i get back to the project i’ll have a look what can be done in terms of fitting it intact in the frame.work enclosure.
I use one of those little flash drives as a music source in my car. Another contains reference documents for cameras and other goodies, that I may want to move around with. All find ways that work for us.
Just a note about the logitech unifying dongle. I have the Pico version which is tiny.
It has a visible circuit board that forms the contacts and holds the parts. It seems to be sitting in a plastic piece which provides the spacing for the USB-A connector.
On the underside of the unit is a seam to slide on the front cover. Yes glue seems to be involved, but I am going to try and get it apart to see if it can be tucked into a module.
Logitech USB Unifying Receiver, 2.4 GHz
Managed to fit the cracked open dongle with the same type of connector I posted a picture of earlier. Easiest way was to bend out the interlocking metal seam using a stiff razor to loosen the plastic endpiece. The plastic piece can then be pulled off relatively easily.
Just wanted to check if it physically worked, so I melted some PLA to hold it in place and put some tape over it. It successfully connects, so at the very least it seems feasible.
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I just received my adapters and I am heading down a similar route.
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Reviving an old thread, but I did end up building one of these for the Logitech Unifying Receiver. Also works with some cheap dollar store wireless mouse I had too.
Used the same mini USB-A to C adapters linked above, and modified the 3D printable expansion card design to hold the adapter and stripped down USB dongle. I can provide the step file if anyone is interested
FrameworkModule v6.stl (326.0 KB)
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I used the STL file from @Avendor and the USB-C to USB-A adapters (different Amazon link) was able to use it for my own Logitech Unifying Receiver.
A few notes on that.
I used the “micro” version of the Unify Receiver as the standard or older model did not clear the backstop built into the model @Avendor posted… at least not without taking the plastic off the end.
I was able to use the standard micro receiver and just sand the plastic flush with the metal for a decent fit. I added a very small bit of rubber between the receiver and the backstop and it works perfect.
Here is the Amazon link for the in-stock converter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N1TWG8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_HAMZ12V2VF6Q0FBKE
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My Unifying Receiver is one of the older ones, so it likely has a bigger PCB.
If you’d like I can upload the step files which can be modified in something like Fusion 360 so you don’t need the piece of rubber holding it in. My measurements weren’t incredibly precise to begin with. For example the side blocks aren’t close enough to the USB housing so there may be a little bit of play in there but should be enough to keep it straight so the USB-C connector goes in and out without problems.
I have had mine as shown in my post plugged into my Framework since I posted it and its been great!
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That looks great. I don’t have a 3d printer but what about a version with an adjustable end-stop? If I knew I could adjust it for the length of my dongle, I would pay for something like this. For now I’m using one of those chenyang mini adapters with no cover on the expansion bay, and it’s fine enough, but having a clean external line would be nice.
@Shark_Sandwich I have been thinking about something “adjustable” but the only things I can come up with are setting the stop further back, and including printable wedges at 1mm adjustments that would attach at the screw posts. It wouldn’t be a great solution in my opinion as it can create a lot of wasted material in the print process. However, I would love to hear other possible solutions.
Only way I can think of doing an adjustable version would be with some kind of a spring as a tensioner. I kinda got lucky with my initial measurements. The one I posted was my 2nd or 3rd attempt. And actually if one were to look at the model carefully the back panel isn’t flush on one side. Maybe that can be a project for a weekend coming up - improve and refine the design.
Here is my best first idea for adjustable stops. The slots and cross piece could be made completely straight, but then the cross piece would have to have added thickness to avoid deformation by the plug pressure when being inserted. My idea is to angle the side supports, so that imparts an angle on the cross piece, turning it into a sort of leaf spring, and thus resisting the back-pressure from insertion.
There is probably some sweet spot between material density, wall thickness, and slot angle, which would work for 3d printed plastic. It could also be possible to use a metal cross piece that is simply cut from existing spring or hardened steel stock.
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@Shark_Sandwich good work!
I like this design, I might suggest moving the screw posts out to the four corners, or maybe more simply, providing some more surface area and see if we cant just get some metal foil stickers engineered to enclose and complete the look, but still offer people the ability to remove and replace it down the road.
I have been watching some of the other threads and FrameWork themselves said sticker covers for the modules was fine…
If you raised the height of the side stops, and built enough surface area into the Crenellations then the sticker would have something to grab onto, and then we would have something with the backstop adjustments, and a more finished appearance.
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Out of interest, what settings are you using to print this and what orientation? I’m struggling to get the little retaining lugs to print cleanly.
Also, is there a lid that goes with it?
@Paul_Braham late response but the one I designed was printed with relatively normal PLA settings with no supports. I found adding supports made the whole thing much more of a pain to clean up. It is printed with the bottom side down as it would look while inside the laptop. There is no lid as I didn’t want to deal with screws and didn’t think it would be necessary sitting in the laptop all the time.
I have been using the one I printed months ago with no issues. Been sitting in my laptop the whole time. Its very convenient to have!
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I’m working on a more permanent/destructive solution, I’ve made a KiCad footprint to match the standard spacing so you are able to just solder the board internally.
@Nathan3 I did use supports and a fine preset with PLA. Could probably print without supports to see how well it works on your printer.