metal shell creates a faraday cage and kills the signal.
You sure there aren’t enough holes to make it work? The t480s has a lot of metal too and that works just fine.
Just scrolling through this, it’s surprising to me that no one has put a USB hub chip into one of these so that there’s still a USB port on the other side, I don’t see why you couldn’t (I’m assuming there are relatively compact usb hub chips for sale, but I might be wrong)
Today i received two USB-A Expansion Cards for testing and it looks like that a unifi or bolt receiver would fit toghether with a USB 2.0 switching IC. I might try it with the TS3USB221
from Texas Instruments.
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What a cool idea! Please share how it goes, I’d love to have a two in one card with the receiver and a USB-A port.
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Seconded, this would eliminate the need for multiport cards for me
Just want to be sure that you knew that the chip you linked is only a switch. It won’t feed both ports simultaneously. For that, you’d need a usb hub. That chip also requires external control to select with port is active. Though that could be done with a small physical slider switch.
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Hey @MJ1,
yes thanks for pointing it out.
This Hub IC from microchip USB2422 should be better suited. For prototypig it might be nice to test with the NanoHub (2-port) from muxtronics.
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Unfortunately, that board has been out-of-stock for a long time, Iirc.
Since apparently no one has posted this here yet, this now exists as a product, it’s just missing the shell: https://www.tindie.com/products/crimier/framework-laptop-usb-a-ugment-expansion-card/
I sent in a request via tindie to the creator but no response after 2ish days, @Arya can post here if there are any updates.
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He made a thread here on that card
*She, and, yes!
ye I’ve finally had a friend help with compiling a STEP file, just need to find a second and polish it! In the meantime, I got myself a used 3D printer from a friend… just need to figure out to which extent it’s operational =D
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Oh, I’m sorry!
I tend to fall into using he online, when really it’s unknown most of the time. I’ve occasionally tried to use they when unknown, but it seems I forget & fall back.
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no worries! oh and I’ve just found out I can add pronouns in my profile so that they’re visible in the little “click on username” popup, added!
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Not sure if a quote mentions the person, so just a nudge @Moe_Wigs
I’m eagerly awaiting my framework 16, and I would love to have a dongle hider.
As 6 ports should be plenty for me, I think I’ll keep it simple and not use something more advanced like the USB-A-ugment.
In any case, I just had a couple of questions regarding the adjustable model you posted here:
- Is it required to take the plastic off the dongle, or only if it doesn’t fit properly otherwise?
- Based on the context I would assume it’s meant to work with this (amazon.ca equivalent of a USB A-C adapter linked above), is that the case?
- From what I can tell the cover is just a tension fit/ loose, and stays in because that side faces the bottom of the laptop. Is that correct?
- In the STL file you provided there seem to be two different bays, but only one cover/set of adjusting bars. Is there any difference between the two?
- The highlighted one isn’t shown in the preview image you showed above, so I assume it to be the extraneous one.
- The highlighted one isn’t shown in the preview image you showed above, so I assume it to be the extraneous one.
If you would be so kind that would be quite helpful.
Thanks!
Yes, it is required to take the case off the dongle, most just won’t fit otherwise. It is for a permanent or semi- permanent solution, and, why I made the “true dongle hider” which hides the dongle without having to remove the case.
Yes, that is the adapter, but not the one in your post, it needs to be for usb-c.
The adapter just sits in the bottom, it’s held tight by the side posts and the brace, the usb a to c adapter is off centre, which is why the case is a little deeper than standard, it won’t otherwise fit.
There are two of the same case, it appears. A mistake on my part. One was supposed to have a lid that clicked on to the body. This works well with nylon, I’m not sure about PLA. I’ve uploaded the new file any way, so you can choose.
Sorry, I misread one of your questions. No, the original lid has a couple of small indentations on top, these are to guide drill holes, the indentations line up perfectly with the two posts in the body and are for small screws to anchor the lid. You need to drill the holes yourself, I didn’t include holes because you can choose a screw size that best fit your needs.
dongle hider.stl (1.3 MB)
Oh, my bad! Completely missed that, I thought they were USB C. Looks like I’ll have to order them off aliexpress, amazon doesn’t seem to have them in my region.
I’ve ordered a 10pc set of USB C to USB 2.0 adapters from aliexpress. I most likely won’t end up using all of them, so if someone in the Canada region needs a pre-assembled dongle hider, I’d be willing to print and ship it (so long as you cover material costs/shipping)
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If you’re willing to ship to your neighbor down south, I’d love one! I’m on the east coast though so if you’re in Vancouver it probably won’t be cost effective.
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My mouse has a USB-C dongle so I didn’t need to use an adapter. I also didn’t want to crack open the housing of the dongle so I designed a piece for the dongle to glue into. Unfortunately I didn’t get the size quite right and so had to file down the the part a bit to make it fit. If there is interest I will fix the file and post it here.
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