I checked with support on the monitoring of the CMOS battery voltage, charging state etc.
The official reply is there ISN’T ANY.
Seems like a “Doh” moment.
If I understand it correctly one of several things are happening…
A. The rechargeable battery discharges too quickly
B. If it takes 24 hours with external power connected then it charges slowly.
C. The rechargeable battery fitted to the first models such as mine to TOO SMALL in capacity.
D. There is a fault in the way the battery is attached to the mobo.
“A” may not be true (but SERIOUS if it is) as conventional 2032 or whatever normal battery lasts say 10 years) so discharge rate is MEGGA LOW !!
“B” certainly true and maybe if the Laptop battery isn’t charged fully when PC first used then the CMOS battery (supplied charged?) never gets its full charge? You are then in a loop unless you leave your charger attached for extended periods of time and the CMOS batter then gets a full charge. Modern battery charging does as far as I can see does not screw the main battery but people may still believe this and remove the charger or simply work on battery power (it is a laptop ! )
As you can’t monitor it? (Huh?) All desktop PC mother boards come with a host of sensors for temperature voltage etc. Who forgot the CMOS one?
“C” from some other posts it seems like it is and the newer model has a larger capacity battery (and a monitoring circuit saving you opening the cover just to read the battery voltage? )
“D” I have kind of discounted this one, without taking things apart {and breaking the 2 years warranty (UK) }this is a difficult one.
I charged the battery (not 24 hour charge) to 95% and switched on every day for four days, today 20th June 2022 it DIDN’T START so either the CMOS battery wasn’t charged fully OR it discharges tooooooo quickly.
Some official answer needed here.
Any info on the new model and its CMOS setup appreciated.
There is definitely a problem here with how often some users are having to reset the mainboard, as the connector is very fragile. Users are warned that the connector is fragile, but even experienced PC builders or people used to repairing consoles still accidentally break fragile connectors. For instance, I have seen many reports of these people breaking the WiFi antenna connectors off of boards.
I found your thread by accident and you have provided lots of great insights. I think the other thread title will cause many people to miss it. Something like “Laptop won’t power on” would catch more attention.
I only found the other (RTC) thread by chance, I think another person copied it to this thread.
I can’t alter the title of either thread and it is so long I don’t think I have read it all.
Possibly posting the title of this thread in the other post will alert anyone following it (which could be a lot of people) to this info?
Sorry to ask (as a long time IT person but how do I add a link to another post in a post? When I sort out this simple thing I will add one to this in the “RTC” one.
Time and date correct and charge to 80% set and saved.
Charged for 24 (26) hours
Started without ac connected.
Went through a sequence of black screen 17 seconds with power light ON
Then power light off 2 to 3 seconds
The ON and Framework logo
Booted.
Checked BIOS Time and date were wrong two days out and four hours out
Reset 80% battery charge
Reset time/date in Windows
booted and checked BIOS, new settings saved.
This is tedious on any PC, on a new top of the range PC it is unacceptable to have to do this regularly
(elsewhere I read that (3.07 BIOS update fixed the power on probs?)
I assume that GFW30.03.07 indicates I have the latest “3.07” BIOS ?
I will now NOT charge the PC but power on with no ac connected every day and see if the problem persists.
You need to run multiple bursts of high CPU load to flip from white to red/orange again. (It’s to do with that trickle charge scenario) You’ll see that the battery charging would toggle from 0.00w to a positive non-zero value.
Powered on ok checked BIOS and the changed settings are still there.
==========================================
Update from Framework where they suggested charging for 24 hours once a month to avoid loss of CMOS settings now that first 24 hour charge was complete.
NB As previously confirmed by Framework there is no way to check from within Windows on the voltage or charging status of the CMOS battery.
Re the “Intel” problem and general info (from Framework ! ) on the CMOS battery, 24 hour charging leaving the Laptop unused for long periods etc. etc. this is a MUST TO READ
Read the Jason_Dagless post, it starts with “I got a long reply from Framework to my short question -”
EVERYONE with a CMOS battery problem should read this.
Good luck with that the RTC|CMOS battery is designed to supply 30µA/Hr which means the battery could last 24 days
Given there is some concern that the CMOS and CPU are draining the battery at a hight rate you may not get 30 days as that equates to 24µA/Hr
If your system is running and not taking 24µA/Hr then you may reach 30 days as there is a report of someone reaching that.
Howvere should the RTC/CMOS battery drop below 2.5V it will need pulling and allowed to recover maybe to 2.7V before you can start the laptop even with external power connected.
Not something I’m likely to try, luckily as I couldn’t stop using it for a day
I can live with taking it apart once (it’s a DIY machine anyway) that allows me to measure the voltage etc. too.
I read somewhere her that there is a higher capacity rechargeable battery too? In which case I could replace the existing one? Do Framework supply this, I will look in a moment.
PS I guess the discharge rate does not vary with use, but the CMOS battery does get a little charge when I have to connect the p/s as I did yesterday. This could slightly extend the life (ok JUST) to beyond the 24 days, 25 maybe?
but how do I add a link to another post in a post? When I sort out this simple thing I will add one to this in the “RTC” one.