Thanks
I’d again like to offer my gratitude for all the help.
I ordered my Framework 13th edition Intel last night (lower i7 version.) Also ordered memory separately going with Kingston ImpactX 2x16 3200, CL20 and WD 2T Black 850x. (got really good prices on these.) I figure if the WD craps the bed, so-to-speak, my next choice may be the SK 41p.
In all the reviews I read, none of the drives seem to be without issues of some kind and all seem to be a roll of the dice with regard to getting a dud: sad as this is with regard to QC in manufacturing.
Because I can’t afford to be down too long I ordered Win11pro mainly b/c of not having to be attached at the hip with Microsoft as I’m to understand one needs to be with the home version.
I’d appreciate some guidance with regard to the following two items:
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Recommendation(s) for a USB-C/thunderbolt NVME enclosure that will accommodate a drive with a heat sink and hopefully not weigh all that much for travel to create an extension/storage drive. Not sure if this is wise, but I’m looking toward a 4T drive to house and begin cleaning up all the files I have in various drives, eventually to have a backup of this as well.
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A good clear, comprehensive guide with regard to debloating as much if not ALL of the crap that is attached to Win11pro. I know right off I do not want Cortana, Edge the resident virus crap and any other communication with MS beyond update comms to keep the OS operationally smooth. I had some issues getting the crap off of Win10pro and not sure I was all that successful.
Thanks.
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In what sense?
The price difference between usb and thunderbolt is quite steep there.
You can get generic dual protocol (sata and nvme) ones for <20$ like this one for example (the heatsink is mostly show but I guess you could add a thermal pad to actually use it).
Thunderbolt ones were over 100$ last time I looked, not much cheaper than the cheap egpu boards (I though I could build a cheaper egpu board out of one but turns out the adt-link egpu thing is already a thunderbolt m.2 enclosure with a pcie adabter on it XD)
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A 20 Gbps USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 enclosure would be very fast and a good compromise between the older 10 Gbps ones and the very expensive Thunderbolt ones.
Something like https://www.amazon.ca/Enclosure-Adapter-Aluminum-External-4TB-M233GY/dp/B0BKPP2QDY - a good brand and a good rating.
20 Gbps = 2.5 GB/s, not too shabby.
Cooling is passive with all these enclosures, so you want an all-metal one preferably with fins. The more metal the better.
There are 40 Gbps USB 4.0 ones that are more expensive but still less than a proper Thunderbolt enclosure. 40 Gbps = 5.0 GB/s
https://www.amazon.ca/INDMEM-USB-4-0-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B0B9732VFL (cooling could be better on that one)
https://www.amazon.ca/Enclosure-External-Aluminum-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B09TZYF48V (cooling seems to be better but I do not like their statement about incompatible drives, and price is getting up there)
Gives you an idea at least. You don’t have to go all the way to Thunderbolt 4 if you need high speed.
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Pretty sure that’s just thunderbolt
Whoops, you’re right.
If you’re looking for an external SSD adapter and also need a hub, I really like my:
I don’t know about TB4 but does do HDMI @ 4K 60Hz.
Review of it is here if you want more info:
@amoun I went to find the video or article regarding my comment. From memory and only one listen, this is what struck me as off: The commenter noted that the home version required an active ms account in order: I think (heavy emphasis on think) to update the OS. And there was something else regarding the home edition that necessitated being linked to an MS account.
On the other hand there is some work around with the pro version not requiring the account.
I apologize for not being more clear. I will endeavor to find what it was I either read or saw and post it: if I can located it.
Thank you to all who offered an external enclosure, I’m beginning to look these over. @Richard_Lees that does in fact look like a winner for desk use. Is it travel friendly? I also rather like the second photo, “YOU NOLY NEED ONE…” An amusing read after a long day!
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I use mine as a desktop hub for my monitor and extra storage – but it’s not enormous and could travel relatively easily, I suppose. Kind of the same as a power brick.
Cool thank you.
No I’ve been using Microsoft since DoS through Windows 3.1 to now, never had an account with Microsoft or Google for Android etc.
Always set up Windows PCs and Android phones without internet and it avoids what appears to be a mandatory account, it then becomes a user active choice if ever it is wanted.
So I bought the pre-build with Win 10.
- Ensure there is no Wi-Fi
- Select language and set up local account
- Update to Win 11
No prob 
Cool, good info. I will endeavor to do just as you suggest, no internet until after I install Win11 and see how it goes from there. Truth is I’d be thrilled if I were able to use Win10pro instead, but have been informed by the community and a caveat on the Framework website that this new computer and the 13th Gen series Intel will not support it at all.
I got my current rig in 2014/15. I’m really looking forward to getting this new machine. I’ve only had Lenovo laptops since I got a hand me down from my little brother (or would that be a hand me up?!) That was, if memory serves an IBM 301 (butterfly board). Very cool form factor I enjoy very much and was saddened when it finally kicked the proverbial microchip.
I’m hoping the keyboard on the Framework will be as good as the ones I’ve had on all of my Lenovo computers. The typing experience is quite singular: feel, travel, crispness of response.
I’m only posting the quote to support my activity not because the site overall is of any use.
In the latest builds of Windows 10 and 11 (21H2, 22H1, 22H2), you cannot create a local account when installing Windows. Microsoft recommends using Microsoft accounts instead of local Windows accounts. For Windows Setup to prompt you to create a local account, you must disable your Internet connection (Wi-Fi or Ethernet) when you install Windows.
How to Login with a Local Account instead of Domain Account
Win 10 or Win 11
I setup Win 10 without an account and then updated to Win 11 so see the following too:
Great, thanks for the link. I read through the destructions and I’m certain one of these options will work fine. I’ve seen the RUFUS one mentioned in several videos.
Yes there are simpler was to destroy, just throw the laptop out of a high rise building