I sent a support request in on Oct 14th for an RTC battery replacement module. Other than the 2 automated responses it has been dead air. Is there anywhere official where the current support backlog time is posted? All I can really find is the goal is 24hrs and, to paraphrase, ‘it’s really busy right now… and it will take longer’.
Honestly I’d probably just buy the module from the marketplace if it was available… but I guess since it’s a soldered part it needs to go through support? Anyway, pushing 8 days now… seems a little excessive.
I know this is ‘community’ support. Hopefully these posts are read by someone at ‘official’ support
I had it take something like 10 business days to get a response to a ticket I made recently. So they definitely seem a bit overwhelmed right now.
If you do decide to reach out and ask for an update, don’t start another ticket through the website and don’t send a new email (which I believe also starts a new ticket). Instead, reply to the automated email you got. Starting a new ticket or sending a new email just creates more tickets support has to sift through.
Thanks BigT and amoun for the welcome and responses.
Yeah, after filling out the request form I got two automated responses. One saying the request was received (someone will get back to you) and then a special one for this issue in particular… basically saying the two options are either the module or get another ML 1220. I prefer the former so I won’t ever have to deal with it again
I haven’t actually measured the voltage but if the laptop is left overnight and not plugged in, it won’t boot unless I get it plugged in again (not great for travelling). Mainboard reset is a no go… bios settings will be back to default (only thing I change is the power button lighting level), and clock is incorrect until I sync to a time-server again.
I reponded to the second automated message which started with “This is an automated message sent to all customers that have either been identified as having a power-related issue with an 11th Gen Intel Core Mainboard …”. In the response I obviously followed all instructions (pic of mainboard serial, original order number, etc).
Anyway, yeah, I am essentially trying to identify myself as a customer with this issue (RTC battery doesn’t charge from main battery so a bad RTC battery will stop laptop booting). I have also recently purchased/installed the 61Wh battery and updated the BIOS to 3.20
Good to know about the possibly long delays though. I’ll give it a few more days… and pull out the multimeter next time it’s open.
Also, especially be very careful when inserting the battery replacement PCB. People have reported that it’s a very tight fit & it seems it will break the holder if you flex the holder more than the absolute minimum to get it in.
If I was doing it, I’d file the PCB down just in the spots where the holder’s clips are. Then after it’s in, if it needs increased pressure on the contacts, rotate the PCB to a wider unfiled section.
Regarding the ‘no go’, I just meant there are instructions on how to reset the motherboard issued by framework (involving disconnecting both batteries and looking at some flashing LEDs). There’s a post somewhere asking you to see if it resolves the issue (of it not booting). It does not… but yes, that definitely resets the CMOS. I meant to say that leaving the laptop with the lid closed (in a sleep state) or powered down overnight will also result in the BIOS being at default values… and the machine will not turn on (even with substantial main battery capacity remaining) unless I can get it powered.
I have left it for over 24 hours plugged-in (which is the only time the ML 1220 gets charged for 11th gen 13") but it makes no difference… after it’s unplugged for any length of time it will not boot and the BIOS is back to defaults… when I get power going to it again it can be turn on (after a minute or two). I haven’t done the exact tests to see how long it takes… but 6+ hours is definitely enough to drain the 1220.
I believe this to be exactly the issue having the module would solve… allowing the main battery (which never really goes all the way to 0%) to power the CMOS.
MJ1: Thanks for the advice on filing the PCB down just a little at the right spots…if the fit is too tight I might do that while ensuring I don’t mess up the contact area… like you said, only near the clips if possible.
Just got a response on my e-mail support thread It’s all sorted and the module has been ordered. Thanks for all the suggestions. (I secretly think posting here may have helped!)
