I found the same slim usb C to A adaptor mentioned here. I’m glad I had the idea to check the forums. It verified this adaptor would work so thank you!
I have a glorious gaming mouse so slightly different dongle size. So rather than adjusting a 3d print I went the lazy and probably slightly more expensive route.
I emptied an original usb-A card, filed and scraped away some plastic so my dongle fits. Then I simply poured mold silicone into it.
It turned out pretty good and was super quick. The dongle sits firmly inside.
I will probably redo the silicone pour, it was too cold and trapped too many air bubbles. Perhaps this is helpful to someone that does not have a 3d printer readily available.
Adafruit Industries have the reverse of that adapter in an ultra slim form, perhaps it could be reverse-engineered for an even more slim and finished version
Something like this could save even more space for headset dongles since you could slide the receiver slightly under and right up against the wall of the expansion card, you would theoretically just need to solder a little blob between them since they are lined up perpendicular to each other
Oh yea! I love this kind of thing. I made a dongle hider for my logitech dongle, which conveniently can be re-paired (Pair with mouse), and I’ve had it in my framework for… around 6 or more months. I just took a USBA-C adapter that came hooked onto a SD card dock, and modeled around it. Looks a bit odd, but hey! Its discreet enough that no-one notices, unless I point it out!
Here is the true dongle hider I made, so no more removing or filing down dongle cases to fit. I made two lengths, so different sized dongles would be flush with the case.
Regarding an energy hit, I definitely updated firmware on the Displayport adapter. The last I remember was discussion for the HDMI adapter, but not a release of firmware.
I don’t remember anything for the USB-A adapter. There was a community member attempting a hardware solution, though.
If someone has the links for updated firmware, I would appreciate a follow-up reply.
Old eyes and cell phones don’t always work well together, to find links.
Any chance Framework will make a dongle hider card? Or is someone else selling it?
The only other laptop I’m considering, the Thinkbook 16 G4+ has this little flap which hides a recessed USB-A port for dongles, and I’m irrationally smitten with the thought of having my Logitech Unifying receiver neatly tucked away (without me having to spend hours doing some hack job to come up with my own dongle hider contraption).
I have a Thinkbook 14 G4+, it’s an excellent laptop. The ethernet port is very tight though, I need to take the bottom plate off and file the latch slightly, so it opens a little more, but not be too loose.
Or make a hider yourself, it’s simply a usb to usb c adapter removed from its case, a bit fiddly to do, especially if it’s a metal case. I don’t think a normal printer would cope, the usb surround looks quite thick on the photos, but, top and bottom are less than 0.5mm thick. It’s essentially a recessed USB A port. And, all my enclosures slide and lock together using rails and tabs, no need for any screws or fasteners. Which, is why nylon is the perfect material.
This is a new version of my previous hider, the old one was too shallow and the braces were too flexible. I can’t edit my old post to update it, so I’ll post it here. The narrower braces are made to fit against the back wall.
I don’t have the STL for these, I already explained how I lost them. These were printed months ago, but I hadn’t figured out how to remove the adapter from the metal case without damaging it. You can see from the first image how rough the removal turned out, I damaged the rubber protective coat, until, I developed a way to free them without damage, it’s a fairly long process, which I wouldn’t like to do too many times, involving a file and a lot of effort. The other type of case, above, I edited from the the upload I’d previously made.
Hey ,
just had an idea how to make a true dongle hider. How about we could create a PCB that includes some kind of USB switch IC, then we could solder the logi (unify or bolt receiver PCB) directly into place and hide it inside the module while also having a free usable USB A port on the module.
I opened one of my bold receivers and the PCB for it looks like this:
Why not go one step further and just put it inside the laptop?
My current plan is to steal the usb off the fingerprint sensor I am never gonna use anyway and put the receiver into the laptop. Don’t have my framework jet but I did that on my t480s and it work great.
Keep in mind that thing does draw quite a bit of power though (and it doesn’t seem to sleep right) so with a more modern amd cpu that may make idle power signifficantly worse
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