Ok, so I’m not super familiar with the actual hardware level details of USB ports, but comparing this image of a USB female port and this picture of my DH+, it looks like the power pin might be bent or broken?
edit: yup the pin was somehow smooshed to the back. I tried to bend it back straight but it just snapped. I’ve ordered a replacement.
That sure is an unusual failure and my first nonworking board of all 150 boards produced.
I was attempting to install a logitech “HERO” dongle inside this, but it wouldn’t even be detected by Windows/Linux. I tried a few other dongles on the USB A socket, didn’t work. However my USB 3.0 drive was detected without any issues.
Could my expansion card be defective?
I’d be quite surprised if a USB drive is being detected but a dongle on the same port is not being detected. Can you check to see if there is a bent pin in the socket like
Finally got around to installing my dongle! Was a bit fiddly, and my first attempt failed because I tried using the bottom/back pins, but with the thickness of the wire I used plus the thickness of the dongle PCB, it wouldn’t fit back into the shell.
Moved it to the top pins, and all good. Works great. Thanks @LeoDJ and @Josh_Cook.
I bought one of the Donglehider+ from Etsy and i am really pleased. Dismantled my Logi Bold Adapter installed it in the “USB2” Spot and i am thinking about, what Adapter would be suitable for the second slot. Really a great Addition. Thanks for the Project!
I didn’t even realize there was more than just that one page. I am going to spend way too much money there I think.
I made my own sort of one, just with an inset USB A connector but I found this and holy s**t this is so cool.
I have received the 16 units I ordered. In NL with VAT/Import it came to 21 euro each.
Most have been distributed already.
I chose to connect my dongle to the “bottom-connection” and had to look twice for the correct orientation of the dongle. Don’t mind my soldering, it didn’t go as nice as I wanted.
We made some nice pictures.
Would it be possible to make a PCB revision to add a connection bar on the right side to connect the top and bottom sections?
My thought is it would be notched so it can be snapped off/cut without damaging the rest of the board.
Just something to give the PCB extra strength for those that just need one dongle that fits in there.
See my crude drawings:
or
Hi Guys,
i am very interested and i will definitely make one myself and maybe some more for sharing 
I am only interested in integrating ONE dongle so the additional pads are not necessary for me and i will remove these. I also saw some hickups about USB3 and USB4 ports with your setup so i looked through some other possible ICs and found this promisinsg IC USB5744 from Microchip which could be a tight fit on the PCB and could resolve some issues.
I am considering modifying the way the dongle will connect to the PCB. Is it possible that the DONGLE-PCB and the PCB are stacked on each other heightwise or will they be too tall for the enclosure?
Updated board outline to strengthen the PCB, holes are in the same position since I 3D printed extra cases so I don’t want them to go to waste. Placing the order for an additional 75 units.
And another item on the shopping list!
Lovely to read a new message from you! But don’t forget about your time off 
Looking forward to my fw16 combined with your addons
I’ll also say this: all of you love the silver enclosures, currently my ratio is about 8:1:1 for all of my orders, silver, black, white, and these boards are still my best selling, while being the cheapest
Hi,
I’m from Belgium, do you still happen to have one?
Would love to buy one from you?
Y.
Sorry for asking here, but how can we reach out to you? My order was sent back due to an issue at PostNL, and would love to discuss the next steps. For your reference, order #364.
All e-mail addresses I’ve found bounce.
josh_cook@i2clabs.com.au will work, and I actually have your order that was returned to me.
If you could let me know where you found the other email addresses, that would be great!
This is an amazing device but i think the pcb should be revised to use castellated pads and not this fiddly soldering with pins its quite aggravating to try to keep the pins in place when soldering the other side of the pin even when using soldering tricks like bluetack.
castellated pads would solve all this frustration just place the dongle pcb under the current one on some blue tack and tack the pads down from the donglehider+ down to the dongle and done. none of this fiddly stuff with loose pins in very close proximity
I am not sure if that would work, but depending on the license, you’re free to make your own version.
