FW13 Keyboard Replacement questions, thoughts, and some words of caution

Continuing the discussion from Is keyboard replacement really that hard?:

Hey y’all,

Due to a tea spill accident, my Framework 13’s keyboard isn’t working that well anymore. :slightly_frowning_face: I’ve seen multiple posts online about how you should really just replace the whole input cover (one linked above, and one on Reddit). I’ve (embarrassingly enough) actually had a similar incident before (I will now no longer permit liquids near my computer :sob:), and I just ended up replacing the Input Cover entirely.

I wanted to check here if my plan to proceed is a good idea / if you guys had any thoughts. (Hopefully someone else with a keyboard spill issue might see this too!)

1. The Accident

Immediately after the spill, I lifted up the laptop and turned it upside down so that the tea didn’t seep any further. After some hours of panicking involving lots of 91% isopropyl alcohol and trying to leave it to dry, the results are that ONLY the spacebar doesn’t work. Other keys that originally had the tea over them ended up feeling sticky. The touchpad and fingerprint sensor are completely working, as well as all internal components! :smile:

For anyone in the future with a spill accident, I would say that ensuring that the damage doesn’t actually get to internal components (the mainboard) would be a decent priority. The external components (input cover, expansion cards, etc) are much more easily (and affordably!) replaceable. Additionally, if you’re able to clear it of all liquid, let it dry for many hours, probably at least 24 to be safe tbh. The moisture won’t technically fry anything that’s not powered on, so as long as you powered it off immediately during the spill you might be able to recover more. (For reference, when my first similar incident happened, about HALF the keys were out.) I’m thinking that this is because if you only turn it on once it’s dried a lot on the insides, then it’s technically not shorting much internally.

2. Where I’m At

As for warranty, in the list of things that wouldn’t be covered:

Damage caused by misuse, accident, neglect, or abuse.

so that’s out of the question. For those seeing this in the future, replacing the Input Cover alone instead of the whole keyboard assembly is definitely easier. I’ve disassembled my original broken keyboard just to see how it is, and it’s very tedious involving lots of screws for the keyboard membrane. It’s also possible to damage the various ribbon cables and strip screws. That said, replacing the keyboard alone is certainly not impossible, and would be cheaper.

On the note of price, though, the good news for me is that I can just get a refurbished Input Cover. (I’ll be swapping to the Blank ANSI one this time! :slight_smile:) So the price difference isn’t too insane this time when it comes to picking between a kb or input cover.

3. My questions:

  1. What do Refurbished Input Covers even come from? What can I expect in quality from them? (i haven’t purchased a refurb product before)
  2. Should I consider just replacing the keyboard - has anyone else had an okay time doing it?
  3. Unrelatedly, my bottom cover screw heads are beginning to strip - can I replace them?

Yep.
frame.work/marketplace?search=Fastener

Aren’t they captive screws? I’m referring to the 5 on the bottom cover. I know at least 1 of them is

Not certain but I would really think, all screws are in the kit, including captives. As you can usually remove captives, they just aren’t meant to come out accidentally.

~edit~ In case others read this later, the captive screws are included in the Bottom Cover and Mainboard kit: frame.work/products/fastener-kit-bottom-cover-and-mainboard?v=FRANGZ0001. They are sliver, the ones with a shaft which is only partially threaded. The “M2 5.75mm with a T5 head which is 4.6mm diameter and 0.8mm thick (x5)”. This guide provides confirmation on which screws are which: guides.frame.work/Guide/Fasteners+Guide/106#s606, Step 1.
~~

Haven’t done it with the Framework myself so not certain of their retaining method. Some captives just rely on having an unthreaded shaft that is slightly thinner than the threaded portion, which serves to stop unscrewing the normal way when it reaches that section. Other captives put a small clip around the screw shaft. The former you just need to push the screws from the back while also unscrewing. So pushing in from both sides, as you need to keep the screwdriver tip on the screw, but pushing moreso from the back.

I do see screws with a narrow shaft like that in the FW kit.

I vaguely recall someone posting that the FWL13 uses a combination. Iirc one screw, front left corner (when laptop is right side up / normal) being a different type. Think that one had a retaining clip. Certainly may be remembering wrong.

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Having opened mine recently, I can confirm at least one screw uses a retainer clip. Which I somehow managed to remove and need to get back on there ( :downcast_face_with_sweat:), but it uses both methods.

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Oh, retaining clips can be a pain. :anguished_face: I imagine there are tools to put them on, and maybe some techniques that help without special tools. If anyone passing by happens to know, enlighten us please!

If you have some time, perhaps you could take a picture & point out which screw it came from.

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Will try to do so when I have the time/inclination for sure.

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