Actually, coming from the RC world, I admit that antennas are a real PITA to handle.
Same for computer devices and AP’s.
What most people don’t realise is that once you plug the antenna on the u.FL connectors, they snap in with a slight “click”. They have to snap in, or else they are not correctly put.
However, to place these correctly for the snap-in to be able to work, you definitely need to see how you place the male connector onto the female one.
I usually first put the antenna on the board, the install the board. And I use my “professor” magnifying google to do that. Without it, not possible!
This…so much this. Having an actual mod accuse people of insulting the OP is casting a negative angle on the whole issue. People are mostly pointing out this is not a distinct framework issue, and to the plastic cover, you can just omit it if you don’t like it (i imagine). I myself tried to make light of it by saying I have kids for stuff like this :D. But then again, seems like the mods are trying to take things negatively. People need to realize text posts can’t convey emotion very well, and if you take everything as a joke and in good heart (excluding outright attacking and offensive language), you will be much happier dealing in online discussion.
The Community Guidelines apply to everyone. The OP deserves to be treated with respect, the same as any other member here. One post was flagged for being inappropriate, we agreed and posted the warning. It’s a generalized warning just to try to calm things down and to make sure no one is shown any disrespect. We would do the same for any member. That’s how things are supposed to go around here, and to be honest, how they usually go. It’s only occasionally that we have to wade in, and when we do, we always try to be impartial.
I accept that the antenna issue is not Framework’s fault, that’s fine. I have an issue with the M.2-2230 WiFi module industry as a whole, because it’s a terrible connector and I can think of half a dozen better solutions.
However…
The fact that I opened up the laptop, installed two sticks of RAM that definitely work and are listed on the Framework website as “OK” and then couldn’t even turn the thing on is at least partly Framework’s fault, and if that hadn’t happened I’d never have gone near the WiFi module and I’d be posting this from my awesome new laptop.
Looking at the module with magnification, I can see that it’s wrecked: the metal circle on one of the antenna terminals is squished.
I do have a replacement module. When I got the shipping notification I noticed it didn’t mention a WiFi module so I ordered one, which has now arrived.
So, probably on Saturday, I will get the ridiculous magnifying eyeglasses and the needle-nosed pliers and I will try to install the new module. And if it goes well, I will pop half my RAM in the slot that works and get up and running, and then I will see if there’s a BIOS update that maybe makes the RAM work, otherwise I will work with Framework support to get that issue resolved. If I need a new mainboard then I should be able to pop the WiFi module out without disconnecting the antenna.
If I wreck the replacement module then I will admit that this whole thing is just not for me, return it and go buy a ThinkPad.
I disagree with that. While the SKU is definitely compatible, that doesn’t mean that the specific kit you got isn’t (partially) defect. Also, it’s possible that the RAM just wasn’t seated correctly, as many have experienced with their laptops/desktops before. It’s always the first thing I check when I build a new PC and it doesn’t want to post, after checking the power switch on the PSU and the front panel connections.
It’s just the way it is, RAM is quite a delicate part with very sensitive connections.
Otherwise, I’m happy that you found the culprit and also already have a replacement (that’s a funny coincidence, lucky for you!). Happy to hear you giving it another shot on the weekend, we’re rooting for you!
(On a side note, those glasses really seem useful. Even though my eyes are still fine, they could be helpful when soldering tiny things. Might get one of those ^^)
That’s pretty much the worst case, the nibs on the chips can be real fragile.
Silver lining though, it could’ve been worse. On another machine, the wifi could’ve been a soldered on chipset, so a crushed wifi contact would require soldering or whole board replacement to fix.
Some advice on the next attempt, use a credit card or plastic tool with some flex to try and push down when you think it’s lined up. You don’t want to apply too much force if the connectors aren’t actually lined up, as that’s what will crush the pieces.
When they snap on place, it should feel pretty obvious, and become hard to remove the antennas afterward without some force.
Reseating the RAM was the first thing I tried, too. I suspect the Channel 0 slot might be faulty, because it won’t POST with either of the sticks in it, with or without Channel 1 populated, but it happily POSTs with either stick in Channel 1.
I’m glad you have a plan moving forward. I really hope you are able to get it all worked out. Hopefully, you haven’t become too discouraged with the laptop or this forum. This community is generally a very welcoming, helpful place full of people who go out of their way to help others.
In fact, one of the reasons I was comfortable pre-ordering such a new, novel product as the Framework 16 is because of this forum. Over the years I’ve found it to be such a great resource. It has a wealth of helpful folks and helpful information. Heck, I never used Linux before finding Framework and this forum, and now Fedora 39 is the OS on my daily use laptop. I appreciate everyone here and the lengths they go to share information and lend a helping hand.
I’m sorry your initial experience was a little rocky. I say welcome to the community and I hope it’s smoother sailing moving forward.
I am glad you found the issue and good luck, hopefully the new module works out, and then i think others have said the second slot didnt work until after the first boot, so maybe you are right on that, and if not that will be something framework will fix.
If you haven’t already, I suggest watching the video @A_Green posted. Starting at 50 seconds.
Pressing the connector forwards (not too hard) and down, the way that’s shown in the video, is how I do it. Those connectors have separation in the collar at the back, pressing forwards helps push it open enough to snap on.
Also, you might be interested in the tool Sparkfun sells for attaching and removing U.FL connectors.
But I’m not certain it’s compatible with the Framework cables. And of course, it’s an extra cost to try it, but if it could reduce frustration it might be worth it.
That video show the older style, same type of connector, just bigger. The pictures is also of the older connector. It looks like that tool is for the older connector as well. Again. the connector looks nearly identical, just the new one is a bit smaller.
There are other connectors that look similar, but U.FL (or cross-compatible connectors from other brands) are the current most common connectors used on wifi cards. And Framework does list their antenna connectors as U.FL Framework | Framework Laptop Antenna Module
And the tool is also for U.FL. It specifically lists U.FL-LP-040 and U.FL-LP-066, which are the same connector, just designed for different sized coax cable.
Now it still might not work since just “U.FL” is often used for any cross-compatible connector, even if it’s not actually a Hirose U.FL. The tool looks like it might need the upper wings found on Hirose and other brands to hold the connector well.
The video is just to show the technique, which does apply to U.FL.
I didn’t say that it wasn’t U.FL. I didn’t remember the names off the top of my head, but I was saying that the video and the picture both appear to be the U.FL-LP-066 which is not used o newer devices anymore. If the tool specifies that it works with both, that is fine, like I said I did not remember the names, so wasn’t sure when looking and the pictures only appeared to show the U.FL-LP-066. Also, no the U.FL-LP-040 connector is physically smaller and is not at all compatible with a U.FL-LP-066. The connector specifications that I just looked up very clearly show they are different sizes and I accidentally order the wrong pig tails recently and found that there is no way to make it work without damaging things.
Yes, I am aware that the technique is the same, but the smaller one is a little more difficult to get connected in my experience and things might look a little different, so I was just pointing that out. I thought I was clear with that in saying that it is the same type of connector, just slightly smaller
