Rework Instructions for 11th Gen Mainboards to enable powering the RTC circuit from the main battery

#$ſđÞºẞŦ↑@!%!!! (just kiddin’)

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I finally ran into one of these in the wild, I’ll try it this weekend.
@Kieran_Levin for the simplified solution can we ditch the schottky if the LDO has reverse current protection?

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@Don_Cober Yes you do not need the schottkey if your LDO has reverse current protection.

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Sweet so just specify one of those and it’s a single part fix, wires don’t count XD

Yep, once we can vet this version, we’ll update the guide and point to the best part to pick up on Digikey/Mouser.

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Extending upon this plan:
image

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Are we getting an even more streamlined fix? Not sure what I’m looking at…but I strangely feel good about it.

Is that a coin cell battery annihilator?

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I went to switch on my Framework after not using it for a little while again…dead!

New battery too. This is getting real old. Have switched over to using the old £150 Dell latitude for anything serious. It even has an ethernet port installed as standard. Plus it can go weeks without being charged and still work.

It’s funny how stuff goes full circle!

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That’s without the rework?

I wonder having done the rework has anyone has stashed the laptop in a cupboard for a couple of year :slight_smile: Well not yet, but now and then I pull out Dells and Toshibas after years and the power on, sure I’m warned about RTC being out of time, but F1 just gets me going.

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Like who is risking that on an already expensive moneypit? :rofl:

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Yes, but the newer option, one I proposed , :innocent: , is just a little add on LDO but until the warranty has died, 10 months yet, and I have nothing better to do, which hopefully I will, then I’ll just use it for 6 hours a day and never have the problem except on the forum.

Take care, keep it ‘alive’

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In progress.

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13 posts were split to a new topic: Cause of 11th Gen RTC Bug

Let’s make an effort to keep this thread confined to talking about the rework itself, please. Off-topic posts will be moved and/or removed.

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Can we assume that the item in npr’s photo will be a single purchasable item from the marketplace, as oppose to buying it in multiple components and self assemble?

(i.e. There’s almost no explicit details in the form of intent and direction from npr’s posts…and that lack of clarity has been the mode of communication, that’s fine. But here’s to having a ‘conversation’ about it).

There’s a bit of a gap between “point to the best part to pick up on Digikey/Mouser” and “Extending upon this plan:” and the last photo.

Are we still to pick up the parts from Digikey/Mouser…even though an assembled item is shown in the last image?

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You still have to solder with that assembled board.

That I get…but how about the button looking thingy? Is that a purchasable item from the market place as a single assembled unit, or are we getting the components from Digikey/Mouser? i.e. Who’s doing the assembling to get the assembled board?

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I can only guess based on the information we’ve been given, but I would assume that the part shown in @nrp’s posts is indeed a small board that Framework plans to release (hopefully both in the marketplace, and as an open-source board that the public can access) that would allow an easy, single-wire solder job to fix the issue. It seems the board itself has a very large pad to solder onto, and looks to match nicely to @Kieran_Levin’s “easier” fix reported in the thread. If I had to guess, the small board will be sold in a similar setup to Nirav’s second picture, and will be easily attached on top of the locations shown in the pictures here.

Only Framework can confirm this, but seeing as they talked about looking into ways of making this fix easier for users to do, it would only make sense that they wouldn’t expect users to do the micro-soldering needed to create this board, only the more “macro” soldering needed to attach the board to an 11th gen mainboard.

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I believe that board will fit within the RTC battery clip judging by the PCB design

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Really looking forward to getting it…and the cooler master case, then I can shift this out, and grab a newer board.

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