Things to look out for when doing liquid metal replacement

Framework Laptop 16
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I am close to deciding to just taking the plunge and replacing the liquid metal in my laptop with PTM 7958, despite the “difficult” rating. Anything to look out for? Tips for prying off the heatsink somewhat safely would be especially appreciated, as I think that will be the hardest unless I get lucky with the “mug of hot water rested on heatsink” method.

1 Like
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Hola

I went through this process a few months ago. I was very worried about making a serious mistake, probably similar to what you’re going through. I can’t stress how important it is to go through the main Uneven CPU Thermals thread. See my post regarding getting the headsink off:

All the best.

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The liquid metal will be in lots of little bits, that you need to get off.
Make sure you cover the whole mainboard with something so none of the little lm bits drop into the mainboard as you lift them away.
I used a piece of A4 paper, cut to shape around the cpu area, under the plastic sheet around the cpu.

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I used a piece of A4 paper, cut to shape around the cpu area, under the plastic sheet around the GPU.

How would you do that with scissors?

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Fold it and then cut it in the middle to get it started.

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Definitely check that thread that was linked. I went through the process myself about a month ago and honestly was more daunting thinking about it than actually doing it. One thing I learned to do to assist with easier removal was to power on the laptop and run a stress test to heat up the LM. Then power down and flip laptop upside down and let it cool. This removes most LM from solidifying on the die and onto the heatsink instead. So once you remove the heatsink you are free and clear from the mainboard and can scrape away. There will likely still be some on the die though. Using the provided spudger from FW the flat end does the trick just fine to flake it off. Make sure all screws are completely unthreded so you aren’t flexing the heatsink as you pry away. It is easily flexible with too much pressure. Move slow and from different angles around the die to lift up as evenly as you can. Also be careful not to bend the arms of the heatsink. Best of luck. It’s easier than it sounds just use common sense.

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Honestly that thread is suuuuuper long though. Throw it in chatgpt or something for a summary.

Edit: Oh my, that thread is over 400 pages if you were to print it. That’s too much to put into most free AI tools. I plugged it into our corporate subscription and cleaned it up a little for you:

Step-by-Step Tips & Tricks

A. Removing the Heatsink and LM

Tip 1: Warm Up the System First

  • Run a CPU stress test (e.g., Cinebench R23) for 10 minutes, then power off and let the laptop cool for 5–10 minutes. This softens the LM pad, making the heatsink easier to remove.

Tip 2: Pry Gently and Evenly

  • The LM pad acts like glue when cold. Use a plastic spudger or the plastic end of the screwdriver to gently pry up the heatsink, working around the edges. Avoid pulling on the heatpipes—they can bend before the pad releases.

Tip 3: Remove LM Carefully

  • The Framework LM pad is solid at room temperature and flakes off. Use tweezers, a plastic tool, or tape to lift off flakes. Clean residue with isopropyl alcohol. Avoid using metal tools near the die or capacitors.

Mistake to Avoid:

  • Don’t rush or use excessive force—bending the heatsink or damaging the board is a real risk.

Misc. Tips:

  • Some users recommend putting the PTM pad in the freezer for a few minutes before handling to make it easier to cut and apply.
  • Ensure both the CPU die and heatsink contact area are free of old LM, dust, and oils.
  • PTM pads “settle” after several heat cycles. Run a few stress tests (Cinebench, Prime95) and let the system cool between runs. Performance may improve after 5–10 cycles.

Advanced Tips (Optional)

  • Copper Shim “Sandwich” Mod: For enthusiasts, adding a lapped copper shim (20x20mm, 0.5–0.8mm thick) between the die and vapor chamber, with PTM on both sides, can further improve performance—but this is riskier and not required for most users.

  • Fan Noise Reduction: Blocking the inner dGPU vent holes with tape or vinyl can reduce high-frequency fan noise and improve CPU airflow.

Final Advice

  • Take your time. Rushing increases the risk of mistakes.

  • Document your process. Take photos before and after for reference and warranty.

  • If in doubt, use Framework’s official guide or seek help from a professional.

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Definitely have easy access to a stress test, so I’m gonna use that instead of buying a hair dryer.