I was planning to buy a second heatsink and try to solder on my own shim, even before I saw PSierra117 do it. Now that he has, I might still try that, or something similar.
When I saw that Framework said they had a fix inbound, I decided to hold off. If their fix is to provide a PTM7950 thermal pad, I may be back to ordering a heatsink to tinker with, lol.
Partslist:
Low Temp Solder (138C)
20x20x0,8mm Shim
Hot Air Solder Station without a Reduction Nozzle
Tweezers
Razorblade
Prepare the new Shim with a lapping Block as they are not flat due to beeing stamped out of a Copper Plate. You need alot of lapping for them to be perfectly flat.
Razorblade under one edge of the OG Shim, pry it a little.
Tweezers under this Edge and the Shim flys away
Solderpaste on the OG Solder spot (you can lap the OG Solder for Ease of mind, i didn’t and it worked)
New Shim on there
Heat it until all the solder wents from grey to silver shining (I had the Hot Air Station on 450C and held it on there for like 5-8mins before it was Hot enough that every Solder touching the Vaporchamber was fluid) The Tempdelta from Shim to the Heatpipes is so much, it hardenes in Seconds
Push really hard on the Shim while the Solder is fluid until nothing gets squeezed out under there
Let it cool
Sanding/lapping Block to Lap any Solder protruding higher than the Shim
Done 
I’d add some extra items to the list:
Maybe some extra steps?
Depending on my free time during the holiday, I may try this with a new heatsink.
@PSierra117 thanks again for trying this
My Generic Amazon Low Temp Solder in my Syringe has Flux integrated ;D
And i used a Wooden BBQ Tonque to press on the Shim, but you need to start pressing on the Shim while blasting the Hot Air on there, because it hardens faster than i can swap between Hot Air Nozzle and wooden Block. The Heattransfer is really fast. Thus i had no Problem of desoldering the Heatpipes from the Vaporchamber.
Do not Try Preheating the whole assembly i destroyed my first in the Oven because i tried 
Your extra Steps are only fluxing, which is not needed as of my Experience, but its not hurting.
Sounds like it would be good to have a second set of hands. Someone to press down on the shim with some chopsticks 
Good point!
Incredible guide. Sadly hot air solder stations are quite expensive and I very much don’t have one, so I’m just going to have to put up with the PTM sandwich.
edit: Realized I have a heat gun that does 1000 Fahrenheit at home. Would it be an absolutely horrible idea to use that? 537 C doesn’t seem much more than 450 C.
A heat gun was my first thought. 63c is a big difference though, that’s the gap between freezing and the temperature I like my coffee in the morning. I’m not a materials expert though, so I have no idea if that difference matters. If you’re able to pull this off, then it’d open the door for many of us like myself!
“Low temp solder” isn’t something I’d think I’d want to put onto the hottest part of a computer… but I guess it’s not supposed to get higher than 100C so it’s likely fine?
I think the Risk is a little bit higher, as Heatguns have a higher Total Power than my Hot Air Solderstation. But isnt it worth trying
Well i paid 69€ for my Hot Air Station on Amazon and for myself its quite worth it. More Projects i can tinker with
Well “Low Temp Solder” melts at 138C and i had to blast 450C for more than 5Minutes onto there to get it barely fluid.
The whole Heatsink is soldered together with Low Temp Solder, as one fell apart in my Oven when i had set the Oven to 140C.
So No its not likely for it to come apart during Use.
I never realized how feasible something like this would be with a home setup. The knowledge in here is very valuable 
You need to walk the careful balance between soldering (or desoldering) the shim and desoldering the heatpipe and destroying your heatsink. Exit air temperature from the heating apparatus doesnt mean anything, so long as you are able to heat up the work area to beyond the melting point of the flux.
If you are able to prevent the massive heatpipe assembly from carrying the heat away (maybe enclose them in bbq gloves?), you should have a better time at it. Although, you also run higher risk of increased pipe temperature, and thus melting the factory solder on the heatsink.
Melting the factory solder wont be as painful a experience if there is a jig to hold everything in place. Unfortunately this being high-temp work, I dont know if there will be a easy customer-sourceable solution. Very carefully worked pieces of wood is probably the best bet.
I feel like to this end, even just PTM (or thermal paste) sandwich the stock shim will result in marked improvement.
@PSierra117 so is the stock shim soldered on? They mention some “thermal bonding”, which implies it not being solder
Some workshopclamps should do the Job for holding the assembly together, but there is solder everywhere. The Shim is soldered to the Vaporchamber, the bracket is soldered to the Vaporchamber, the Heatpipes are soldered to the vaporchamber, the fins and outer brackets are soldered to the Heatpipes.
I have no Tools for material analyzation, but i think it is solder.
I was doing some research entirely unrelated to my Framework (heat pumps), when I came across an old YouTube video where someone uses low temp solder to make/modify their laptops thermal solution. I thought you guys may find it interesting to see a visual demonstration.
I watched exactly that Video before i tried and based my Work of his Work I also thought about adding an extra Heatpipe somehow
This Video was the second i used for as a Reference:
Abandoned the solder idea. Sandwich time.
Put 7950 on the GPU already. Messy temps at first, but still 90W at 100C, so I’m assuming it just needs burn-in… I hope.
Wait, are you hitting 100C on your GPU or CPU?
100 on the CPU is normal, but on the GPU is crazy. My 7700S at stock rarely exceeds 70-80C even drawing full power…
I wouldn’t even say the GPU needs a thermal system upgrade, it’s just not powerful enough to be limited by it.
100C on the GPU,
Because I Forgot To Plug One Of The Fans In.
Anyway, it’s really tough to get the CPU heatsink off. Bit worried, but trying to use my heat gun to make it easier.
MY 7700S has Fake PTM and its barely hitting above 70C with 100W.
GPU Cooling is really no Problem in this System. But hey the Die is alot bigger, so its easier to transfer Heat away.
First time pulling it off was kinda sus.
The LM pad they use solidifies once it’s cool and acts like a glue almost.
Was afraid I’d bend a pipe, just pry gently with a spatula tool on all sides a bit then carefully apply more and more pressure each pass.
Heat can help, but you want the LM to stay solid for ease of removal.
No pipes bent, assembly complete. Now to put the machine back together and test.
Burn In is not that much noticable, after its first heated above 45C its in the 1-2% Performance Range of the fully cycled PTM.
Keep us updated 
