Heh yeah I was worried about this, they looked extremely thin in the pictures. My maker skills stop at very basic 3d printing :P. It’d be nice to have some extras so I wouldn’t have to remove them from my old panel if I wanted to switch back and forth, but
Ah such a shame. Maybe someone with a lot of time on their hands could give that a try, but it seems like a long shot. Well, I could always tape the full digitizer assembly to the back of the lid, and make it a Frankensteined 2-in-1
The Spin 3 chromebook screen is an IPS not OLED, and it’s contrast is pretty low. Similar brightness so likely almost same panel as ours. I’m sure the allure is to make the digitizer work for touch, but just the panel itself is not as good as what’s already in the Framework. We need the USB connection and a new lid for it to become touch correct?
@Christopher_Brown Ohhhh… Looking up part number yeah… Not sure how I missed that, but yeah, definitely not OLED. So gonna return this one and sulk back to the drawing board. Thank you for catching that (just in time)!
Here’s the 3 panels which should be a drop in replacement. First one is what Framework come with, available in glossy or matte. 2nd one is brighter less contrast. Third one is similar to 1st but only matte. Panel Compare
There is this 13.4" 3840×2400 part # LQ134R1JX41 which is 3mm wider and 10mm shorter. Just not sure there’s enough room on the width to cut it out bigger and fit in the lid.
There is also a 13.0" 3000x2000 screen that would be a bit smaller, larger bezel but more resolution and a scaling of 200% would be ideal for me. LP130QP1-SPA1
Or a 13.3" that is also 3000x2000 and might fit better P130ZZA-BZ1
All of these should work with some lid/bezel mods.
I don’t think that larger will fit at without significant modification. The width may be doable by removing the magnets on the side but the height won’t work at all without removing the switches etc up top and even then would probably be too tight.
The smaller may work without too much modification, just need to center them on the aluminum bracers and may have some margins showing? Not sure from measuring but could just use electrical tape to cover the gap… Can see the benefit of the higher res with scaling.
For me though, all the panels linked all look like TFT displays. I’m still trying to find a nice OLED panel and am trying to find what’s in the HP Envy x360 before getting a screen replacement to try out…
I’d have an interest in finding compatibility with some smaller screens, sub 12 inch, like maybe 10.1 inches for making a DIY smaller version of the Framework. You’d be restricted by the width of the motherboard and battery, but still cuts a good 5-6cm off the width. If just using the eDP connection this could be possible and no need for USB cables.
This Acer Digitizer works with two separate I2C Interfaces (which is the 8 pin header) for finger touch and stylus touch. Does somebody know how to connect such to the mainboard or via external connector?
Well, the display itself connects straight forward. Its the one from acer spin 7 - and it seems like it is the same as frameworks own.
The Touch Screen Controller, that is the part I am curious about.
There is some “part number” on that… H133820-S-1330-V0 I did some googling, bit did not find any result to these… Could be Acer’s own/internal. Acer Spin 7 Connection Sheet says it is connected via two separate I2C Connectors - one for stylus input and one for finger touch. So they just have to be connected to the board somehow…
The samsung oleds use a different pinout on the same connector (and uses 1.8v io instead of the normal 3.3v for some pins and very different supply voltage), I would be very careful.
Sauce: blew up my t480s mainboard plugging a different samsung oled into it before checking the pinout because I was so used by everyone using the de-facto standard (managed to mostly “repair” the mainboard but still not a good idea).