I know the framework 16 runs hot, but for the last few days its been getting pretty warm where I live, and the room I am in doesn’t have air conditioning so its getting up into the mid 80s. I can handle this increase in heat, but my framework 16 isnt taking it as well and the cpu is hitting peaks over 98 degrees and I am getting throttled down to 35w almost instantly when playing games, tanking the performance to unplayable levels of inconsistency.
Does anyone have recommendations for accessories like cooling pads or minor modifications I could make to mitigate this issue? Not necessarily cooling the laptop down by a lot just getting it to not throttle instantly when gaming during warmer weather
I believe my unit has the thermal pad as opposed to the liquid metal based on when I purchased it but I have not verified that, and if needed I would be more than willing to make that fix.
Ive actually been reading your history with overheating on your fw16!
My vents are pretty clean as far as I can tell, so I will definitely give some of those mods a try, but honestly at this point I have no idea what the true issue is. Some stuff points to thermals some points to the battery flipping, and some points in an entirely random direction, its maddening!
Ill definitely give some of those mods a shot though, I hope they end up helping.
Also, do you know if upgrading to the 240w charger would help in any way? I don’t mind the battery draining on the lower powered one but if it would help with performance I might pick one up.
I also had a multitude of issues I was diagnosing all at once, which is how I ended up spending months troubleshooting.
You can get more sustained power draw out of the 240W psu, naturally, which does have some performance impact on a healthy unit but it’s not night and day better. If you’re already hitting 100c though, chances are you won’t be able to take full advantage of that, and trying to use it with poor thermal performance could make things worse. I’d recommend running cinebench r23 and see what kind of score you get on a 5-10min test.
What you mean by “pretty clean as far as I can tell”. Did you move the fan out and look, or just blast it and see if anything came out?
I recently took the GPU module out and cleaned it.
I ran a cinebench test about a week ago and got a result of 14735.
Running the test today, I got a score of 14508 even though I never tripped PROCHOT and the cpu never power limited. It seems the addition of the GPU to the equation causes the system to freak out and throttle, which is why gaming seems to make it happen pretty quick.
Those are good values for an unmodded heatsink. If it was under 14k I would’ve said you likely have a significant issue, like the liquid metal leaking out. You could probably mess with a 240W PSU if you wanted.
Granted, your temps are still higher than they need to be for some reason.
I might give it a shot, I think my laptop has the thermal pad anyways so the Liquid Metal leaking wasn’t much of a concern.
What do you think the most effective thing I could to to prevent the overheating would be?
I’m just sick of my games going from 120fps+ to the most unstable and dizzying sub 60 frame rate I’ve ever seen. Literally cannot get the fps counter to stay within the same interval of 20 frames at all.
Does your CPU throttle to ~500-600mhz during the frame drop? If not, I’d guess that particular issue you’re encountering is due to battery flipping, but just getting a 240W charger doesn’t guarantee you’ll eliminate that as it can still drain battery on the 240W.
For battery flipping, you could get the 240W and put the laptop in balanced mode rather than high performance and that mostly resolves the issue. I’ve only had my battery flip once under those conditions. Combine that with some ectool modifications, and the issue is practically absent on my machine. In my testing, getting more cooling in place could delay the battery flip, but not for very long, like 5-10 minutes later in my experience.
Alternatively, you could spend $0 and try using a framerate limiter so that the dGPU doesn’t pull enough power to drain the battery and see if the problem goes away. Granted, your temps will also probably be lower due to the lower power draw.
Or, you can use something like gamescope on linux or various upscaling techs on windows to upscale games from 800p → 1600p to keep frame rates but only draw ~1/3 of the power.
There’s actually quite a lot of things you can do, and half the fun for me is messing with all of them to find the pros and cons of each.
It’s so weird though that this JUST started happening for me. I’ve had this laptop for almost a year, and the only change I made recently was changing the old control panel power plan to balanced and using the windows 11 power management, but I can’t even undo that anymore since the option to change back to high performance in control panel is gone
Yeah. As for thermal mods, I’d recommend either just using the llano cooler I linked if you’re ok with the extra noise or doing the copper shim mod. The copper mod is the cheaper of the two, but higher effort and (somewhat) higher risk.
You could also simply run the unit open-air with the midplate removed and see how that impacts your thermals and performance. I’d do that before ordering anything.
Ill definitely give open air a shot, but I’ll need to try a permanent mod eventually cuz I dont wanna take the laptop apart every night after class so I can play a game lol
well yeah, that’s not realistic. The open-air test is just to provide some insight into how much of your problem is thermal related, and how much is battery flipping related. I’d only do it once and then use that to inform decisions about what to address first.
welp this just keeps getting more annoying. opened up the laptop and got it all setup to test if it was thermals or battery, but now I even seem to be running into an issue with either fortnite or the amd gpu drivers themself. Since the update to the game this morning I keep getting driver timeouts so I cant even test properly now.
I am just chronically unlucky with tech sometimes lol
also I am still seeing evidence of cooling issues, I got hwinfo64 open right as I got logged into windows and the cpu had shot up to 96 degrees before dropping down and stabalising closer to 60
I dont know what to do anymore… Im hitting 100 C with the laptop open and a fan pointed directly at the board. Idk what the hell happened since last night that made my computer stop working right but im getting very frustrated.
I cant diagnose if its battery flipping or thermals because the game I was playing last night suddenly stopped working, when It was working it was showing battery flipping signs and now that Ive tried another game its showing thermal issue signs. Feels like there’s nothing I can do to fix this.
Seconded on this. I’ve got it as well (well, the RGB version), and it does a decent job at cooling. For general usage, I keep it at 400-500 rpm and it isn’t too loud. If I’m playing a game or something more demanding, I’ll turn it up to 700-800 rpm, which also isn’t too bad.
Of course, for maximum cooling, crank it up to 2800 rpm and it’ll sound like a plane taking off!
My only complaint about it is that it has a barrel jack for power; I wish it (along with many other things) was USB-powered instead.