All the modifications I've made to my FW 16 (so far)

I recently made a blog post about the modifications I’ve made to my framework, and thought I’d also post it here as y’all may be interested. As a result, some of the text may be worded weird, as it was a copy paste, but I didn’t want people to have to click to see it.

Original link: All my Framework 16 Mods

Integrated Mouse Pad

I’m a big fan of hybrid gaming. As a result, I like being able to grab my laptop off my desk mid-game and plop myself onto the couch to continue gaming. There are a lot of ways to do this, but I like to do it is by having a mouse pad integrated directly with the laptop because I find that keeps the whole process a little simpler and smoother. There’s nothing crazy here, I just cut and glued a mouse pad to size. Because this is a framework, I can also just swap out the spacer I glued the pad to if I decided I don’t want it on there anymore. Additionally, I also use a high-dpi mouse so my mouse doesn’t need to travel far for my needs. On low-dpi, I imagine this would be difficult to pull off.

More Storage

I don’t like running out of storage. I also don’t like paying hundreds of dollars for 1x extra large m.2 SSD. So, I added 12TB of storage by adhering some extra 4TB SATA SSD’s I had onto the back of my laptop’s display. Unfortunately, they draw more power during startup than the USB port can support. Fortunately, I can get around this by simply staggering their boot up… however in practice I really only ever need one at a time anyways, so it hasn’t been much of an issue.

Copper Shim Mod (CPU Temps)

For anyone who’s been active on the Framework forums, this mod is infamous. Essentially, there is an aluminum shim (rectangle) that sits between the heat sink’s vapor chamber and the actual CPU. This mod simple replaces that aluminum shim with a copper shim, which is much more thermally conductive. Before the mod, my CPU was hitting 100c and thermal throttling. After the mod, I have a difficult time getting it past 85c, and it’s normally sitting in the 70s under load. There’s a bit more detail and nuance that goes into this one, but it’s all well documented on the Framework thread. If there’s interest, I can make a separate post describing the process.

Additionally, I also repasted my dGPU module using LTT’s Honeywell phase change thermal pad, which drastically helped my dGPU’s hotspot temps.

Link to Framework forums thread (my username there is TechPriestNhyk): Uneven CPU thermals! - #1481 by TechPriestNhyk

Increasing Air Flow

After doing the copper shim, additional benchmark testing revealed that while it alone had helped my thermals, there was still more gains to be had. As it turned out, my device also wanted more airflow. So, I did what any reasonable dremel-owning individual would do: cut massive holes into my laptop for more air. Yes, this makes the device less visually appealing, and I will likely have to clean it more often, but the thermal gains I get from the modification are more than worth it for me. Eventually, I’d like to add some sort of trim to the rough metal edges so it looks a bit nicer… but that’s a problem for future me.

I also added a bunch of air-directing foam to the inside of the laptop so that the airflow would end up where it was most needed.

Custom RGB Keyboard Firmware

I’ve written a custom firmware for my RGB keyboard so that I can use it to display device performance stats that interest me:

Row 3 Tab → \: represents CPU utilization and temperature
Row 4 Caps Lock → Enter: represents RAM usage

Row 5 Shift → Shift: GPU power usage % and temperature
Row 6 Ctrl → Right arrow: represents battery usage (power draw while discharging, % charged while charging)

The F12 key (with framework logo) is used to show whether the dGPU is powered on or not. Red means it’s powered on, blue mean’s it’s in d3Cold. dGPU shouldn’t be on at the time I took that photo, so it’s already proving useful!

I also show whether wifi is connected and if the device is currently muted.

More information available on my FW forums post: RGB Keyboard Custom Firmware - PC Utilization Stats

Overriding PSU Safety Limits (Performance Stability)

Yes, you read that correctly. The Framework 16 has an “issue” where the device can pull more power than Framework’s 240W PSU can provide stock, leaving it up to the battery to pick up the slack. This is fine in short bursts, but over a long enough time period (25 minutes of Battlefield 6 in my case) it can drain the battery enough for the device’s control logic to trigger a recharge. This means the power-budget of the CPU/GPU is decreased in order to allocate some power to recharging the battery if there was no more juice left available from the power source. On it’s own, that might be fine. The performance loss due to that power budget change isn’t actually that crazy on it’s own and could easily go unnoticed. In my case however, it does become immediately apparent because the device will start flipping back and forth from the different power budgets about once a second. This results in a consistent 1s micro-stutter that destroys my 1% FPS lows, resulting in an actual headache if played long enough. As it turns out though, Framework’s control logic automatically throttles the PSU to just 90% of what it’s capable of. In the case of my 240W PSU, that throttle equates to ~205W, which when measured with an external power meter is exactly what I see the laptop pulling. Using a tool called ECTool I am able to override this 90% throttling limit. In practice, this allows my device to then pull 215W from the PSU (still well under the 240W rated capacity) and avoid battery drain. I created a small script for myself that would automatically detect what PSU was plugged in (since I also have a 180W PSU), and then apply the appropriate override.

I’m not going to provide any links to how to do this on this post, but for those who are interested it is well documented on the Framework forums as the “battery flipping” issue. If there’s enough interest, I may make a future post on the topic for members.

Taping Paper onto my Battery (Fixing Touchpad Self-Click)

This one seems odd, but it’s actually the first mod I made to my Framework and it came out of necessity. I had this issue where my touch pad would click on it’s own anytime it wasn’t on my desk. Having a laptop randomly click while… on your lap, is incredibly frustrating. As it turns out, this was a mechanical issue where a twisting motion of the device was somehow enough to get the button to physically click. After some experimentation, I found that if I taped some paper directly under the silicon spacers of the touch pad module, the issue went away! I later moved those spacers to under the midplate/onto the battery, as this was more convenient considering how often I take the touch pad module off.

More details on my thread here (RandomRanger is my old FW Forums account): [Issue] Palm-rest Clicks Trackpad

Misc. Mods

Bent Spacer

Like many others who’ve ordered the Framework 16, one of my aluminum spacers was bent at an aesthetically unpleasing angle. I just bent it back into place and it’s looked flush ever since. People seem to get worked up over this issue, and I really don’t see the problem given how simple the fix is, but I do sympathize for people spending as much money as one of these machines costs and feeling a need to “fix it” right away.

Upgrades

When I originally ordered my Framework 16, I didn’t actually get the dGPU with it. A year later, I ended up deciding I wanted one and was able to add it to the laptop in under 2 minutes. The dream of upgradable laptops is real!

After release, Framework came out with a Gen 2 camera + mic module. I don’t ever use the camera, but the mic on the Gen 1 was entirely useless. I eventually upgraded to the Gen 2 module and found that the new mic… was still useless. Turns out, all I had to do was change the input volume on my OS settings to ~40-50% instead of 100% and the mic sounded fine! That was probably the problem with the Gen 1 mic too, but oh well. Now it works.

Headset Dongle

Most of the time when I’m gaming, I’ll use my pair of Audeze Maxwells, a wireless headset (not sponsored). As it turns out, the dongle for that headset fits almost perfectly in the expansion card slot! This makes it incredibly easy to game on the couch with the laptop on my lap without needing to worry about putting too much pressure on the dongle.

dGPU Plugs

One of the downsides of the dGPU and CPU sharing a fan despite not sharing a heatsink is that the airflow is shared between them regardless of what temperature they’re at. With the way the airflow is configured, most of the air goes to the dGPU (which makes sense, given it can pull twice the power). What is also means, is that if you have a CPU-only load or if you CPU is getting hot and the dGPU is not, most of the airflow is going to the dGPU when it’s not needed. To combat this, I designed and printed a little plug (don’t say it) that fits into the slots on the back of the laptop. This helps prioritize airflow to the CPU at the cost of dGPU cooling. On my forum thread linked below, I have provided the 3D models for free in case anyone else was interested in trying them out.

Note that since the copper shim and air-vent mods I haven’t needed to use these.

More information available on my forums thread here: Blocking GPU fans to increase CPU airflow

The End

Thanks for reading! I hope you found some of this information useful!

14 Likes

Awesome mods. The custom RGB keyboard is one I can totally see myself adopting if the FW13 had an RGB keyboard. Would it work with an external RGB keyboard? Thanks for sharing!

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Thanks! In theory, it’s compatible with any QMK based keyboard, which includes many keyboards, but the firmware would have to be re-written for that device, compiled, and then flashed.

How did you attach the storage? Can you remove them at any point? How’s the hinge stability? I’ve been thinking of doing something similar with a powerbank, just more hot-swappable.

I used 3M’s “reusable tape”, so I can remove them if I want and theoretically reattach them. If I wanted to do that a lot though, I’d probably use velcro. It’s study enough as is to hold the screen at any angle I set it, however if I pick up/move the laptop too fast there’s definitely a risk of it falling open or closed on it’s own, I definitely wouldn’t put anything heavier than this on there. What kind of power-bank are you thinking? I could envision some where that would probably work fine, or about as fine as my SSD’s are, but also some where that would be a terrible idea. If I were putting a power bank there, I’d also put it as close to the bottom of the screen as possible, I think most of the weight affecting my screen comes from the top SSD.

velcro sounds interesting. I’ll explore that before trying to learn to 3d printing :sweat_smile:

Regarding powerbanks.. Idk.. I have like 3 of them, that’s why I’m interested in swapping them instead of stacking. and yeah, definitely towards the bottom of the screen.

Thanks for the response!

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I really like the idea of the integrated mousepad. I’ve done something similar (and less permanent) as just putting a mouse pad on my FW16. I don’t use that method often since I like and use my num pad. The way you’ve done the custom RGB on the keyboard is interesting and a nice way to have performance metrics at a quick glance. I have to say the thing I’m most interested in is the trick you used for the performance stability. I’ve noticed on my FW16 that I’ll have a bunch of really low 1% lows in rapid secession while playing a lot of my games and performance is obviously choppy. I may want to do that to solve my issue because I don’t have that issue if I’m running off of battery.

Thanks for the kind words!

If you’re on windows, one of the easiest ways you can avoid/mitigate that battery flipping issue is to avoid “High Performance Mode” like the plague and use balanced. It’s way better for long-term sessions given the issue with battery power regulation.

1 Like

I’ll have to double check my settings tonight. Otherwise I may look into your method.

I followed in your footsteps:

  1. Copper Shim Mod with Honeywell PTM 7950 and HALNZIYE HY2610 Putty (CPU NEVER goes over 90°C)
  2. Increasing airflow just a tiny bit (didnt cut out the grid, but drilled larger holes into it)
  3. Put paper on top of the battery (seems like it fixed intermittent input deck connectivity loss)
  4. Bent spacers
  5. GPU PTM Mod with Honeywell PTM 7950 and HALNZIYE HY2610 Putty

EDIT:
Managed to bring the CPU back to 90°C max. by reapplying one PTM layer of the copper shim mod.
And it seems like the PTM Mod for the dGPU increased Helldivers2 FPS from 60 to 70

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I did the copper shim mod with thermalgrizzly ptm right around the time they were sending out the free replacement ptm pads because why not. this is a laptop for the adventurous. it’s still working wonders 14 months later and my cinebench scores haven’t varied much since doing it.

However, interestingly, after doing that and now having that excess heat making contact with the heatsink and the heatpipes now actually doing work, the whole laptop now got very very hot during sustained cpu use; to the point the keyboard got uncomfortably hot. At that point I had the laptop for 10 months. 2 months after that my D key started stop registering sporadically and then permanently. I bought a new keyboard. 4 months after that it happened again. the new keyboard… well annoyed i just let it sit for a bit while using the broken one and just didn’t use the d key and my vocabulary soared. and then someone went and added an aerogel sheet under the midplate in a post made here. I didn’t hesisate and i bought a sheet off ebay and after it was delivered i cut it to size, cut out the screw holes and mashed the midplate back on top. mmmm she’s a big girl now but the keyboard does not get hot to the touch. warm, yes, as expected. but it’s been 5 months now and keyboard’s perfectly fine.

with the heatsink sandwich and the aerogel sheet the laptop definitely feels bulkier, and i do find that with the little bit of flex in the chassis it’s enough now for the trackpad to disengage briefly from the midplate connectors because the keyboard and macropad lights reset. it doesn’t affect typing when it happens because it’s so brief but obviously it happens and i have to rescan with openRGB (i flashed the keyboard firmware for it).

trade off is entirely worth it. and if i’m still on this keyboard in 8 months then i’m calling the aerogel mod a success.

i also wanted a second screen, even a 3rd. and i’m still seriously bummed that there’s no way to re-purpose the existing screen that we can connect to a controller and plug in to one of the expansion ports. it stopped me from buying the RTX5070 and the 2nd gen screen so i could reuse the original (and i’m kind of glad. lolfkno, i’m not getting the 12gb one though).

but i really want more screenz!

and then randomly this showed up for me on amazon and my mind exploded:

Magsafe suction mount

looks like they’re on sale again! i picked up 4 of these for $15 apiece because i want more screens, but i don’t want to make any permanent modifications to the laptop. and then i did this…

It really works surprisingly well. i use spacedesk on the tablet to extend the screen if i want more pc real estate or i use scrcpy if i’m too lazy to reach my finger out to the tablet to control it. The tablet has better black production and contrast so i often use that to watch movies or serial shows while it’s attached and i do other stuff on the laptop while piping the audio through the laptop because it’s still better than the tablet.
I don’t REALLY have the tablet and 2 phones hooked up… maybe the old iphone 6 that i attached a magsafe ring to so i can just glance at whatever team i want to suffer through keeping tabs on that night.

all of those connected are HEAVY. the hinge has like 5 degrees max off vertical before it collapses in either direction, and the CoG is absolutely terrible.

But as a DIY thing for now it works and it’s convenient and i absolutely don’t use it for anything productive because haha then i wouldn’t want to put the effort in!! But

but if we (read: you all) ever figure out getting the existing panel’s eDP figured out i aboslutely want to make something sleek and nice and triple screen…

Last thing i did was opposite direction for ventilation. I covered the expansion bay shell fans with a dust cover and it probably would have worked great… but it made the fans sound even more like a jet turbine. I did it because i had just recently cleaned out the dGPU and shell fans because after 2 years they had started to sound like those big 5ft box fans that i remember from high school summers that were set up in the gymnasium as ventilation.

after i cleaned the fans they sounded much nicer and quieter. i wanted to make that last! the dust covers did not work. i’ll buy new fans; i just worry they won’t be in stock when i need them and i really don’t want to be without the laptop if that happens :\

2 Likes

Thats awesome, thanks for sharing your story! It seems like we may have similar tastes for what it means to personalize :slight_smile:.

I’ve also plugged the same vents on the dGPU but i’ve used tape that’s so thin and blends in like it’s meant to be there it looks practically seamless. doesn’t affect the dGPU temps and more air sent through the cpu fins can’t be bad.

That’s how I originally did it as well, though I used bright orange tape for the aesthetic. Once I did the copper shim mod I stopped having CPU overheating issues, so I haven’t used the plugs in a while. I did find that in some games/use cases the dGPU would end up over heating and shutting down while using the plugs, but I never quite narrowed down the how or why. It didn’t seem to be strictly related to power draw, but it’s also been a while.

How much power does it need?!

I usually game on my desktop and use the laptop for work, so I don’t get to stress the dGPU that much or often.

I plan to change that so I ordered the 240w PSU. I’m surprised it is not enough?

the RX 7700s dGPU is intended for 100W, but it has software support for pulling up to 120W. We’ve also got an Asus Tuf at home with the same specs as the FW 16, and it comes with a 280W PSU.

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