Interesting, the guy in this video appears to install the exact same SKU of RAM that I have and he has no problem with it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUoI3X_IfaI
My FW16 has the same RAM which is what I’m using to type this out so your socket is probably damaged or something regarding that socket in particular.
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Thanks for the info.
If you haven’t already, I suggest watching the video @A_Green posted. Starting at 50 seconds.
Pressing the connector forwards (not too hard) and down, the way that’s shown in the video, is how I do it. Those connectors have separation in the collar at the back, pressing forwards helps push it open enough to snap on.
Also, you might be interested in the tool Sparkfun sells for attaching and removing U.FL connectors.
But I’m not certain it’s compatible with the Framework cables. And of course, it’s an extra cost to try it, but if it could reduce frustration it might be worth it.
Sparkfun also has a page with some tips on dealing with U.FL Three Quick Tips About Using U.FL - SparkFun Learn
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That video show the older style, same type of connector, just bigger. The pictures is also of the older connector. It looks like that tool is for the older connector as well. Again. the connector looks nearly identical, just the new one is a bit smaller.
There are other connectors that look similar, but U.FL (or cross-compatible connectors from other brands) are the current most common connectors used on wifi cards. And Framework does list their antenna connectors as U.FL Framework | Framework Laptop Antenna Module
And the tool is also for U.FL. It specifically lists U.FL-LP-040 and U.FL-LP-066, which are the same connector, just designed for different sized coax cable.
Now it still might not work since just “U.FL” is often used for any cross-compatible connector, even if it’s not actually a Hirose U.FL. The tool looks like it might need the upper wings found on Hirose and other brands to hold the connector well.
The video is just to show the technique, which does apply to U.FL.
I didn’t say that it wasn’t U.FL. I didn’t remember the names off the top of my head, but I was saying that the video and the picture both appear to be the U.FL-LP-066 which is not used o newer devices anymore. If the tool specifies that it works with both, that is fine, like I said I did not remember the names, so wasn’t sure when looking and the pictures only appeared to show the U.FL-LP-066. Also, no the U.FL-LP-040 connector is physically smaller and is not at all compatible with a U.FL-LP-066. The connector specifications that I just looked up very clearly show they are different sizes and I accidentally order the wrong pig tails recently and found that there is no way to make it work without damaging things.
Yes, I am aware that the technique is the same, but the smaller one is a little more difficult to get connected in my experience and things might look a little different, so I was just pointing that out. I thought I was clear with that in saying that it is the same type of connector, just slightly smaller
U.FL-LP-040 and U.FL-LP-066 both mate to the same U.FL-R-SMT receptacle. 2mm diameter. It’s only the attached coax that is different.
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That isn’t frameworks that’s normal. I’ve worked on two recent dells that friends have, and have the exact same design. The design is so that the cables don’t come off in your traditional manhandling of a laptop. And I feel for you in regards to having issues but realistically it’s not that hard if you just slow down and take your time. Just make sure to route the cables so that they’re at an angle that doesn’t force them upwards that’ll cause the connectors to detach.
These are both U.FL connectors. Are they the same? There is a third one between the two that I dealt with very recently when I got the wrong cables, but I don’t know where they are at the moment.
EDIT: What I meant was there was at least one other size between the two, and all have been called U.FL connectors, just the standards have gotten smaller over time. This is essentially the two extremes. Everything about the connectors and the plugs is essentially the same except the size. This creates confusion and I was simply providing some information to help in case people do get confused because things look a bit different.
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They are not both U.FL. Again, there are a number of connectors of the same general shape but in different sizes. Hirose defines U.FL as having a 2mm diameter receptacle. There are seller that will mislabel things.
The larger one is from a wifi card around 17 years old, I have been working on this stuff since well before then, and those connectors were always called U.FL at that time, just like they are now.
If you heard different sizes called U.FL, that was just wrong. Other sizes are different series, like W.FL, E.FL, etc. Hirose has a ton. And each has a defined receptacle size. They do have the same general appearance, but that doesn’t make them all U.FL.
But more on topic, when Framework lists their cables a U.FL, I trust they are either actual Hirose U.FL or a fully compatible connector, which Hirose does define as using a 2mm in diameter receptacle.
Like I said the connectors on wifi cards since they were first created have always been called U.FL. I can’t find any sources that state this, but every place that I look says that U.FL was invented in 1991 and was used in laptops including for miniPCI wifi cards which is exactly what the larger card is and working with hundreds of laptops, and researching hundreds more wifi cards at the time I never saw a miniPCI wifi card with a different connector. You can belive me or not, but I was around and in the industry when wifi was first created and I know what literally everyone called the connectors.
If it is not U.FL, then what are those larger ones? It was the only standard used for miniPCI wifi cards, and was used internally on most routers at the time, pretty much 802.11a through at least 802.11n almost exclusively used those for the board connectors unless the antennas were soldered.
I don’t think there is much progress to be made in continuing. And we are also filling someone else’s thread will this back and forth.
The general U.FL series datasheet, and the datasheets for all the separate parts within the series define the size. If you don’t believe it, or if you think Hirose has changed the definition of U.FL, you can ask them.
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I don’t need to ask them because I already know the answer. I was simply trying provide some information that might help people in the situation (very likely) that their card/connectors look different and I was clarifying that it works the same even if it looks a bit different which is true whether the other connectors are called U.FL or not, whether they are compatible or not.
That smaller board uses an mhf4 connector, all i had to do was read the labeling on your cards and google them to find that out, you know google is free right? For info, any connector that is that shape is colloquially called U.FL STYLE, not U.FL, but styled after U.Fl thays probably what you were seeing and mistaking as it being identified as U.Fl
Let’s get back on topic please. And personal attack posts have been hidden.
Finally managed to get the WiFi antenna connected to the replacement module.
Onward! to the next circle of hell…
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This worked for me, removing the second memory stick.