There were also a small number of early units produced that may have contact issues on the physical switch on the Touchpad. Try pressing the bottom middle of the Touchpad firmly a few times to see if that resolves the issue. If it does not, please contact Framework Support.
The thing about ‘small number of early units’ was misleading, since I was in batch 5 and I had this exact issue exactly fixed by the suggested resolution.
OS: Windows 10 (fresh install)
BIOS: 3.0.7 (just updated this a literal minute ago because I want the charge limiter)
Batch: 6
Firmly pressing down on the bottom middle of the touchpad resulted in a right click the first couple times I did it, but it did not fix the issue at first, but as I typed this it seemed to start working lmao.
Darn, the problem came back… are there any other fixes that I should try? Do I just keep squishing the mousepad when it misbehaves? That seems a little janky…
(to be clear, I am willing to accept some level of jank as an early adopter)
@Matthew_Elmer, is the touchpad physically clicking? That is, you get a mechanical click, but nothing registers in software? If so, that sounds like a driver issue.
If it is not clicking or is rubbing, you may want to try the steps in the Touchpad Rubbing Fix Guide that’s on the page linked above. Also, check the connections on both ends of the cable.
If none of those work, your next step likely will be to open a ticket with Support. Best of luck.
Not sure if this helps, but my Framework (Batch 3 IIRC) had a similar issue where the mouse would “click” but no click was registered.
In my case, I had to take the trackpad out of the top cover, and then remove and re-apply the sticker containing the metal contact that acts as the “button”. It seems for some reason mine drifted with time, preventing it from making a circuit even when it made a click noise. After removing and re-centering mine, I have had no issues.
If it helps, the part in question looks like one of these, and has a transparent adhesive sticker holding it to the board.
Actually, @Chris2, is there any guide that I can follow? Or a set of steps? I opened it up but I don’t want to go disconnecting those tiny connectors before I really know what I’m doing.
It should be noted that the simple act of opening the laptop up and fiddling around with (clicking) the touchpad from inside and outside at the same time has given me a solid 90% chance for the touchpad to work as expected. I think it’s a hardware issue. I just wish there was a permanent fix.
It’s that silver dome at the bottom center that acts as the “button”, it’s just held on with an adhesive layer on top. Just remove, recenter, and try that. Just note that you need to be careful removing it. I used a dull exacto knife for the act, but you NEED TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH THE BOARD.
This is most likely a hardware issue, refer to this thread for more information about it. I also have this problem and I still don’t have this resolved. Pressing in the bottom middle part of the touchpad will work sometimes.
Update: My (replaced) touchpad still has intermittent issues. Sometimes it will click without me tapping! Very frightening when using a gui that allows you to delete things. I don’t have any helpful data to give, but I did want to let it be known that I am still having issues.
Yes I am also having huge issues with the trackpad. I’m on my third input cover this year, yet after a month to three months of use my trackpad stops working with physical clicks. I’m hoping this gets resolved soon in the future.
Update: Clicking with the touchpad is now unreliable regardless of temperature. When I put pressure on the places where you’re meant to rest your palms, or hold it by that same place, clicks do not work at all. If I touch only the touchpad while clicking, it works about 33% of the time after I find the right spot.
That sounds like a different problem, have you tried disabling palm rejection or related settings like disable mouse while typing for testing?
Disabling PS/2 emulation in the BIOS was a suggested fix I saw in other similar threads but I don’t know if that will help.
I’m a little confused as to why you didn’t get a new input after the replacement was also not working? As long as the issue was present before your warranty expired or within 90 days of the replacement I would think you should be entitled to a replacement.
I wouldn’t want to disable palm rejection, but I guess I could try. I remember fiddling with some settings back when I first started having issues, but I should double check these.
The issue didn’t go away after the first replacement, and I had no reason to believe further replacements would be any better. I’m a very busy student, so I didn’t (and don’t) have time to be shipping and swapping input covers repeatedly.
Nope. This is a good idea. I usually think of contacting support as something you do for warranty purposes, but it would make sense to simply talk to the tech experts and see if they can help.