Yeah RMAs can be a pain especially if you didn’t buy directly from the manufacturer and it’s outside the normal return window, sigh. Hopefully they will work with you. I’ve had to RMA with Crucial before due to a bad stick as well.
My mainboard is out for delivery today so hoping I don’t have a repeat…
EDIT: up and running, having some issues getting the old mainboard working on my TV in the Cooler Master case but probably user error…
Mine arrived today and I had the same problem. I ordered the RAM from Framework. However I noticed that the LEDs on the side were flashing different colurs, it was indicating an issue with RAM. So I moved the single DIMM to Slot 2 and it then it posted.
Just looking for the expected sequence of events in case of a fully working setup with empty or missing SSD. I have contacted support, but I expect them to be flooded with requests currently
Do you get the POST LED blinking directly after power on when the system is fully working?
Edit1: I believe my internal display is broken. Disconnecting that and connecting an external monitor via HDMI card shows the system menu and messages relating to boot.
Mine were just flashing red, which I believe is “chassis open” if I recall. One stick works in either slot, and the other stick works in neither.
Brand new kit, only opened today. Never touched the contacts, and they’re clean.
Preemptively ordered an identical kit from B&H because it looks like Crucial wants to only replace the defective DIMM and break up the matched pair. Amazon said they would cover the purchase if Crucial gives me trouble, and it sounds like they may be.
Got mine this morning and put F39 on it. Kinda… barely works though. No GPU acceleration in anything (most stuff I need to use fails to start with llvmpipe/lavapipe). It doesn’t sleep when I close it, and if I sleep from the Gnome menu it won’t wake up. Can’t adjust the screen brightness, and the default is really dim. Fingerprint sensor refuses to add any of my fingers. Can’t figure out how to make the F-keys work. Etc.
I compiled a bunch of my tools though and the CPU is fast at least…
Well my Ryzen 7 board and 64GB DDR5 kit showed up today, and initial impressions are real good! As for some more nerdy findings…
Frameworks memory kit supports CAS 40 according to cpuz and it’s JEDEC timings table, but runs at 46. The memory is made by A-Data and uses SKHynix DRAM, which isn’t surprising.
Wifi, for me atleast, seems faster with the AMD card compared to the Intel AX210 in both Fedora 39 and Windows 11.
BIOS is much nicer than it was on my old Intel 11th gen board
Speakers are LOUDER than they were on my Intel 11th gen board, a VERY nice bonus surprise!
As for issues, first boot took for ever, and laptop didn’t want to power on without being plugged into the wall first. Both are not really surprising though.
Also found a BIOS bug, it seems you can’t change the boot order with 3.02. Hopefully this is fixed in the 3.03 BIOS once it releases.
But ya, glad I got lucky by having a friend who didn’t want his batch 1 order and sold it to me instead. But after my experience with the hardware, he ended up reordering in batch 8.
I added some more details for this post. SPECviewperf and Geekbench were requested. Counter-Strike 2 and GTA V also play fine at 60 FPS ish if you keep settings low or normal at 1080p.
Can’t help you there. I had a SSD ready to go with Windows 11 and Linux Mint for months.
Can confirm this as well. I was surprised that I had a boot order menu but it wasn’t usable at all.
Mine arrived on Monday but I didn’t find the time to install it until today. I am typing on Ryzen right now, upgraded from 11th Gen.
The board came out of the box with bent cooling fins, which I didn’t quite like. One of the problematic things about these hardware kits is you will never be able to prove that it has not been you and your sausage fingers. But I was able to rearrange them with fine pliers “like new”.
I combined the board with 2x16G Crucial 5600 which seems to work just great even though it is not on the official compat list.
After the board change the Arch linux boot loader on my SSD was no longer able to properly start until I reinstalled it from a usb live system.
In normal desktop mode everything seems to be nicely quiet and fast. Games definitely run a lot better. Unfortunately, general system stability seems to be the price to pay for the time being. When changing displays on KDE, leaving fullscreen applications or basically doing anything about desktop size or resolution, 3 out of 4 times big white graphical artifacts begin to cover the display and render everything pretty unusable. The same even with compositing switched off. With my 4k monitor connected on an external dock, the builtin display also randomly switches off its backlight every when and then. All of these were no-brainers with the Intel board and everything just worked for weeks without reboot.
I suspect, for my type of use, I would have fared better with the 13th Gen upgrade but I like AMD for being not Intel and I was thrilled by the thought of being able to run Cyberpunk or GTA on that thing - even though I probably won’t find the time for that in reality very often…
When tasked with graphics-intensive loads, the system gets noisy pretty fast - and I would also dare to say, it ‘wooshes’ even louder than my old Intel 11th gen board. Which isn’t much of a surprise given the performance and the form factor but since some reviews wrote about the Ryzen board being quieter even under load, I can’t really confirm that one.
I am still thrilled by the performance in this sleek body but really hope that stuff will get more stable really fast. Because after all is said and done, it’s my work machine and for being that, it has to work
The shipping box was pristine and the board box is completely undented - but there was some lack of filling material in the shipping box so the board box could audibly clutter from left to right inside the shipping box. That said, I doubt that the fins got bent this way because the board itself is sitting very snugly in a protective wrap inside its board box.
Props to frame.work here for creating a really nice, safe and completely plastic-free board enclosure.
The team should probably revisit this and consider adding more packaging. Other components could have potentially been damage but it seems you’re lucky that only the cooler was damaged.
You have to change the “New Boot Device Priority” from “auto” to “first” or “last” and then you can change the boot order. It says “EFI Boot order can be changed when the priority is not auto.” That said, it took me a minute to figure out when I was getting my machine set up and poking around at options. I ran into the same “why can’t I change this???” situation on the EFI Boot Order page.