Car charger for FW16 - USB PD 3.1 greater than 60W?

Has anyone found a car charger with Power Delivery 3.1 with greater than 60W output on it’s USB-C port? There are many multiple-output devices available, but I haven’t seen any that will do better than 60W on the USB-C port. I have a Lenovo 60W PD car charger that may have to suffice until something better comes along.

I’m considering this one: HKY 140W 100W 96W 90W 87W 67W 65W USB-C Laptop Car Charger PD3.1 12V-24V DC Adapter For MacBook Air/Pro,Dell XPS/Latitude/Precision,Lenovo Yoga/Thinkpad/ThinkBook,HP,MSI,Asus Laptop & All USB C Device

That looks pretty good - it says 140W on the USB-C output, so it’s promising! No reviews though, let us know if you try it.

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I use one of these with my ThinkPad and Framework 13

Edit: Note that many 12V car sockets supply a max 10A, so 120W is the theoretical max before a fuse may blow.


I got which can do 100W.

EDIT: Oh wow, @bz2’s is also a HKY, as is mine. Guess the one I linked to is the slightly older one or something.

Past 140W it’s getting iffy if it’s safe. And actually depends on your cars fuse. The connector is OK up to about 15a, although I wouldn’t want to do that continuously for a very very long time. And who knows what kind of wiring goes to it. 140W is ~10-11a, which is safe. Assuming the wiring is at least 16 awg, better 14 awg. But you also need a 15a fuse (15*.8 safety factor == 12a usable rating). Probably has a 15a fuse on it, but not for sure.

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I’d trust reliable brand and pick this one:

it can do 100W on one port and has a ton of good reviews

In my 2011 Subaru, there are two 12V sockets, one has a 10A fuse and the other is either 15A, or 20A.
I found this out when I was using the 10A socket to fill tires with a pump, and it took too long, so the fuse blew.

Check your cars manual, before going to high on the charger current.

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Interesting - I looked at your HKY, then in the comparison found another PD 3.1 140W HKY charger that has the USB-C cable attached:
This does have positive reviews.

I think I’m going to give BZY’s suggestion with detachable USB-C cable a try. It looks like HKY is a reliable brand. I like having the electronics separate from the cigarette lighter adapter, for cooling and potential flexibility to wire to another connector type.

Detachable is nice, just make sure any cable you plug into it actually is rated for the wattage that you need. It’ll check/negotiate, the cables do have some kind of marker chip in them to verify that they do meet the standards for the higher power load.

But yeah, I’d say detachable is nicer over all.

Although the one I linked, I actually modded it. Cut the power in, and put on some Anderson power poles, so I can hook it up with 14 awg for longer wiring to my trailers 12v system.

You may like to look at the unit over in this post.

I just ordered this to try out when my FW16 arrives:
HKY Laptop Car Charger 140W … USB-C Power Adapter PD3.1 12-24V DC Adapter…

I’ll report in after both arrive!

I have an slightly different (older) version of this in my car. Charges my laptop, phone, and power tool batteries all the same. I personally don’t understand getting a specific cable when you can just get a cheap inverter and power anything* you want with it, but there might be a use-case I’m overlooking.

Amazon Power Inverter


Converting from 12V DC to 120V AC generates heat, and then you plug in a USB charger that rectifies that 120V AC back down to 36V DC over USB - more losses to heat.

Admittedly there are also losses due to heat from boosting 12V to 36V to get into the laptop (which then drops it down to 5, 3.3V, etc for its own use), but we’re doing this conversion as little as possible.

We’re looking to power our devices as efficiently as possible, such as while off-grid in an RV, where charging is limited.

This is also a pet peeve of mine, because 95% of the devices we use today run on DC power which has been rectified from AC. Only appliances with large motors actually run on AC power.

PS: also, thank goodness for USB-C power delivery becoming standard - this is not a special adapter cable with one use, but can charge many current and future devices.


Yeah, very much all this. Plus DC-DC conversions tend to be more efficient, generally well over 90%, usually 95% unless you’re at the low/end current usage for the particular conversion circuit.

Plus, for inverters, you have a base power draw even if nothing is pulling power, and until you get up into the middle band of the conversions power range, efficiency usually rather sucks.

Although I am going to be getting a moderately hefty inverter/charger for my trailer (1500W) so I can power AC things when I need, and it’s got enough surge to be able to to startup power tools, or even a small A/C, if I need. Won’t have the battery life for a very long time, but it’ll be long enough for bit of usage here and there.

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This charger supports up to 140W (28V@5A), but the included USB-C to USB-C cable supports only up to 100W (20V@5A), based on my testing with a USB power meter. I ordered a better USB-C to USB-C cable, which lets me run the charger at its rated 28V@5A. (Max current at 28V was around 4.5A in my brief testing.)