What voltage does the RTC battery need to reach before I should expect a reset procedure to function? it’s at 3.0v now still won’t boot. maybe i’m performing reset wrong?
I’ve previously gotten away with just plugging in my laptop for a while, and then it’ll restart.
That’s not working this time. And neither is the reset procedure.
the RTC battery had dropped to 1.9v, has since charged up to 3.0v. but I still can’t get it to power on even with the reset procedure. does it need to reach 3.2v ? I don’t have a spare, and frame.work support offers either the substitute or the rtc batery but not both.
I have requested the RTC battery substitute. and read up on the caveats.
but i’d like to get it to boot first before starting the rework.
If your power button lights up briefly but then turns off
Double check that the Battery connector is plugged into the Mainboard. If not, follow the step here to plug it in, being careful to avoid bending the pins.
If the Battery connector is plugged in, double check that it is straight and fully inserted. If it looks like it is not fully inserted, first pull the connector out, avoiding twisting or bending it, and then look into the connector to make sure none of the pins are bent.
I thought it might be this issue.. but my battery pins look fine.
is it possible my battery has died completely?
should it be possible to boot without a battery?
with the battery disconnected. the behavior is roughly the same but the LED is white. so it doesn’t boot.
In fact i’m now concerned because I’ve had the laptop plugged in for 3 days now charging up the ML1220 cmos/rtc battery. but the LED is always orange. I think that means it’s still trying to charge the main battery. and it should really be full by now.
seems like the coolermaster motherboard case idea means it’s designed to run without a battery. but I think you have to change bios settings for it to boot w/out battery.
so. i decided to see what voltage my battery was at with a multimeter.
I measured 0v. but i’m unsure if those pins output power by default. 0v seems supicously too low. but i did verify continutity between pins 8,9,10. as well as 1,2,3. so I was making connection.
I’ve never looked into how to make it work, but there should be a standalone mode that allows the board to boot without a battery connected. People use the boards in separate cases without a battery.
If I get a chance, I’ll do a quick test of my battery to see if I measure any voltage with a multi-meter with the battery unplugged. But I have a sinking suspicion that the battery isn’t the issue. I’ll let you know what I find out if I get a chance to test it.
I was going to pull my FW 13 apart this morning, but I saw a reply in your other thread, where someone had already done the checks. Apparently, if they use the battery disconnect feature before disconnecting the battery, no voltage shows up, but the voltage does show up otherwise.
What charger are you using to try to get it to boot up? I’ve experienced weird issues where some chargers will actually turn the output off momentarily when switched output modes, and if the battery isn’t working (or isn’t connected), I imagine the boot process would be interrupted when that happens. Just a thought.
To rule out a shorted top cover, you could try turning on the computer with the input cover removed, using the power button on the mainboard itself. You could also try it with no SSD, and depending on your RAM configuration, you could try with one stick in each slot, etc. Basically, just try different hardware configurations to see if some piece of hardware is causing a system issue.
@fessyfoo
I would be curious to know what make and model of charger you are using.
I might just be an incompatibility with the charger.
You need a charger that has USB PD EPR
I’ve never gone into the bios. so one would think this means my battery should show voltage but it doesn’t.
also still not sure if i should expect it to boot with power but with a bad or disconnected battery.
I just got the same suggestion from support.
Using the SW1 button on the mainboard results in a short pause in the flashing red lights. also activating the lid closed switch and using the sw1 button results in the same behavior illustrated above.
It’s various apple chargers.
A2452 100w
3x A1719 87w
Not sure where the original little black charger i got with the framework is. never ended up needing it.
either using the input cover power button. or using the sw1 switch on the board, ( and the lid closed switch, to see the LEDs) the behavior appears to be the same.
this is the behavior i observe:
with battery connected, and power disconnected.
nothing. no response to button.
with battery connected, and power connected.
LED is orange. (looks like red + yellow on board. actually low green )
push button: LED turns off. flashes Red, then comes on Red and switches to orange.
Ocassionally (1 out of every 5 to 10 tries ) the flash of red is a a flash of red to orange.
Ocassionally it’s white for a moment.
with battery disconnected, and power connected.
LED is white. (looks like blue + green, actually all rgb )
push button: LED turns off. flashes white, then comes on white
At supports guidance, I tried disconnecting everything except video and ram. (wifi, audio, camera, ssd, input cover, expansion cards, … )
I get the same results. Then further I tried with no ram either. and it behaves the same.
seems a strange case.
It sat for about a month and a half, rtc battery was low. but it’s at 3.08v now. and resets galore have been performed.
so my theory is, battery somehow went bad. and this batch 4 fw13 11th gen, is in a state where it requires the battery to boot. (not that i can confirm that’s a state it can be in. )
my support case is being escalated. so we’ll see where we get next.
Did you ever update the BIOS and do you know what the last version you have installed is? The reason I ask is there was an update a year or more after the 11th gen boards came out that would let the boards figure out they were “standalone” without having to go into the BIOS first. (If my memory about this is correct)
Shortly after the CoolerMaster case was announced, I purchased a CoolerMaster case, an 11th gen board, 60 power supply, and some expansion cards to build a little standalone machine. It took some coaxing to get it to start in standalone mode fresh out of the box. I wish I could recall the steps I took to get it to finally come up.
In the animation and descriptions it appears the EC is stuck in some a specific state and needs to be hard reset. I remember doing some long presses of the physical power switch on the mainboard in the CoolerMaster case to get mine to reset because I could not get it to power on.
In your case even the diagnostic lights are not coming up which usually would happen after the system was powered on after being disconnected for a while. I guess I am suggesting to pull the mainboard out of the laptop and try to get it working in standalone mode (I hope you have an HDMI or a DP expansion card). Any 30w+ USB charger will work to power it on.
You’re saying you got it into standalone mode without accessing the BIOS?
Hmm, does pressing the intrusion detection / case open switch a number of times slowly sound familiar?
I read that can be a method to enable standalone mode, but I haven’t been able to find exactly where I got it, or if it’s only for certain BIOS versions and / or certain gen mainboard.
If you have a EC CCD, you can force it to standalone mode without needing to even switch the laptop on. Just plugging in the PSU, and tap away on the EC console from a separate laptop.
The EC code does a few odd things in the power up sequence, that generally require a higher Watt PSU to make it through the startup process if the battery is not present.
I suggest a 100W PSU, that runs at 20V 5A to be OK.
I don’t know why, but during the CPU power on sequence, it can sometimes decide to switch down to 2.5W for 1 second, that obviously causes boot problems. If you have a 100W PSU, it kind of somehow gets round the 2.5W for 1 second problem, and succeeds in booting.
If you have a battery connected, its boots fine, because although it is only taking 2.5W from the PSU, it takes the rest from the battery to continue to boot.
Framework laptops, regardless of what generation, should turn on with or without a battery when it is plugged into their charger, unless there’s a problem with the mainboard.
so i guess the “blocked on bad battery theory” is out.
I guess i’m either new mainboard. or maybe learn enough to play with the EC and see if that leads anywhere.
