Keyboard/Macropad Configuration and Keyshorts Decal Ideas

Finally getting around to configuring my keyboard and macropad but I’m at a loss at what to do now that I VIA detecting them and seeing the shear number of options/layers available. I got the clear keyboard to match the macropad and plan on using either the lettering transparent or background transparent (can’t decide, opinions?) custom Keyshorts key decals that match my configuration.

I’m creating this thread in the hopes that people will share their ideas and even their VIA configuration files and Keyshorts Projects. I’ll share mine when I settle on layouts/designs.

My few ideas as of now include:

  • Adding a layer of Greek letters for STEM purposes (maybe on the macropad with the numbers?)
  • An Interrobang (under utilized punctuation)
  • Common global currency symbols like pound, euro, yen (Number row)
  • Common desktop controls, ie. sound, brightness etc (Function row, need to decide on what to include and the order)
  • RGB controls (can both keyboard and macropad be controlled at the same time via macro?)
  • Gonna have a picture of Tux on the Windows/Super key (maybe framework gear on Fn key?)

Gonna have to figure out a few things like how to map certain keys and symbols. Will I have to configure it as a macro for things like desktop controls and special symbols? How do I get different symbols and will I need their Unicodes or LaTex? So much to consider. Share your thoughts, ideas, opinions, and configurations.

Depends on what you want to control. You mentioned sound and brightness, those are already on the default layout.

For symbols, the first thing to understand is that keyboards don’t send actual characters, they send USB HID codes. It’s the OS that decides what character to print. The same keys are interpreted differently depending on what keyboard language you have set in your OS. So for example, if you pick a keyboard language like standard US that doesn’t have €, well then, there is no normal key to create €. You can either switch to a US intl layout which does have €, or you’ll have to print the symbol a different way. If you’re on windows, and you want to do it through Via (keyboard.frame.work) then you could use Alt code macros. Be sure to use keypad digits, not normal digits. Alt code list. On Linux, you use Ctrl+Shift+ u code. Unicode list.

You can do it, but not through Via. It’s not as simple as a macro. You need to get into compiling qmk and be able to modify some code.

Posting this question here since it is semi related, anyone else have a macro pad where it appears Layer 0 and 1 are the same? Or am I just not remembering how to get layer 1 to work right with M0(1)?

To keep it relevant, there are macros for games I want to create. Some tedious tasks that require holding a button for 4 seconds, click, wait, ect, repeat.

Welcome to the forum

Most keys on Layer 1 of the macropad are transparent, indicated by a downward arrow , so they fall through to what’s on layer 0. M0(1) should work, but it’s only momentary, as long as the key is held. If there is something more going on, it might be better to create a separate thread. You can @me there.

My goal/desire for the macropad is to use it to trigger video fx in resolume. I currently use a midi fighter for this, but it would be really nice to bring less stuff to the gig. Now that I have the laptop and started digging into the documentation I think it’s possible but not as simple as the midi fighter. The midi implementation different from what I usually use.

I was thinking about getting key labels with ableton live shortcuts. I might put serato shortcuts on the macropad. That won’t get in the way of how I want to use it for the video program.

I’m very disappointed in keyshorts as of now. Have only had them installed for a month and they are already wearing off. For something with such a high price, this should not happen.

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Did you contact them?
I feel that something has to be wrong with your decals. That can’t be typical. Presuming you aren’t extremely hard on your keys or using a cleaning solution that’s too harsh. Maybe there was an error in production and the ink didn’t get cured fully. I’ve seen that on some other products. A lot of products seem to use UV cure ink, and you can just set that out in direct sunlight for a couple hours to finish the curing.