Unless he’s using it in a vacuum, where thermal cooling through straight radiation is all you have, or he spends an inordinate amount of time in unshaded direct sun for some odd reason, I don’t think he needs to worry. Convection will far, far outweigh. Plus, you know, the fans.
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Fair point, I live in Wisconsin and go out for maybe a couple hours on what sunny days we have but normally I only use my laptop inside so hopefully I wont run into it but for sure if you work at a place where the sun is hitting the same spot everyday this can be a big issue. Our couch got spoiled in that exact way.
Change the amount to whatever you like. But someone has to make a start. I don’t care if there are 200 companies doing the same thing. I want the option at least.
Amoun. Look. If you don’t care for something, you don’t need to chime in more than once with your opinion about it. You are a fully grown adult person, you understand what somebody means when they say “we” and “you” and “us” in a public forum like this.
You’re acting childish. Stop.
People are just here to have a pleasant discussion about what would be pretty cool if some company maybe did for some of the people who might be interested in it somewhat.
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Here is his response.
“You probably could get away with not blasting, but I always media blast, chemically clean, and chemically conversion coat (Nano) all aluminum before powder coating. That provides maximum adhesion.”
Note that will hopefully be relevant: the FW16’s top cover is aluminum but the bottom cover is magnesium alloy.
The top cover is CNC machined while the bottom cover is thixomolded.
Maybe none of this is relevant but it could mean that a shop will want to treat the top cover and the bottom cover differently.
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You could probably get more guarentees off of it. It also would mean that its easier to 3d print the top cover. The schematics are not good though so right now im trying to make it on my own.
the fact that the top is aluminum is a big difference. they will guarantee that portion of the chassis and not the magnesium as they are afraid it is too soft and could pit through. although i dont see any issue on the bottom @rom4ster powder coat pictures so i don’t feel this will be a problem.
are you referring to the cost of the powder coating? and i think you are wanting Framework to give the option no matter the cost?
i was not proposing that Framework add this as an in house option. I was asking both questions to understand better what was meant by @Castor_Marshall . what i would prefer is the option to have a second business that can take the chassis and powder coat and then send back to Framework to assemble. that seems like the least destructive way as doing it after you get it as shown by @rom4ster with the plastic parts glued and magnets it can be a real hassle and possible that you won’t be able to replace the broken parts through marketplace but maybe get it through support? not sure. the hardest part for me is that i have a specific color and the company that manufactured my wheelchair has a sister business that powder coats in TJ and then sends to the States to assemble and then ship to costumers. they can only provide the color name they refer to and not a color code. my wheelchair has the color called electric blue. a blue with metallic sparkles.
whatever happens in the future can possibly help other costumers if Framework can find a company willing to do it for same price as we can do it locally. I am not waiting and going to do this myself with a local company once i figure out the correct color code. the cost is max $200 but i doubt it will actually cost that much for me as the company deals with a bunch of parts not meant for a vehicles so they should have a good respect for what is possible.
You should be able to replace broken parts through the marketplace, but obviously you would have to repowdercoat the bottom case if that broke. Warranty is 100% void doing this.
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I don’t know where you are coming from but I certainly understand your point. I do think that different styles of laptops would be popular enough where it makes sense. When it comes to black though, its special because when I see the laptops various modules, it makes it seem like black was the goal but due to reasons (environmental from what it seems) it was decided to go in another direction. I think a third party company with sufficient knowledge may be able to do a better job than I was and actually preserve more of the laptop. I hope that people get inspired to try these things out on their own without needing framework but if framework can find multi options and it makes sense for the business, im all for it.
even the magnets and the plastic strips glued or melted to the chassis? i thought you would have to buy a whole new chassis which kinda defeats the point.
yes, the business i am working with will not accept it if everything plastic and electronics are not removed.
yah i am not seeing the plastic tray for directing the wires along the bottom of chassis as a stand alone part.
i do not think i would prefer anodizing over powder coat. the anodizing does deal with acid so it could damage anything plastic still attached as you have to submerge the part in solution. seems like whatever you do that creates best adhesion will require removing everything not intended for extreme temps or chemicals.
The bottom isn’t aluminum.
For the top, if you’re doing DIY anodizing at least, you might be able to avoiding removing plastic, but iirc some foreign metals can contaminate the process. Perhaps you can just seal them off rather than remove. I’ve seen masking / sealing sections done for anodizing patterns or designs, like splatter anodizing. Speaking of which, a splatter anodized cover would be glorious.
It seems to be the other way around. Non-target metal parts can be damaged, or potentially contaminate the process. Plastics, tho, don’t seem to be an issue. Home anodizing is normally done inside whatever random plastic bucket you have available. The actual anodizing step, and the prior step of using a dilute acid to prep the aluminum surface, both just done in a plastic bucket. Some acids are stored in plastic. Draino, which home anodizers sometimes use for the acid prep step, is sold in plastic bottles. Diluted battery acid, another easy to get option, also kept in plastic.
The magnets you would need to either mask / seal off, or extract, perhaps with a large neodymium magnet to pull them out.
I dont think framework sells those individually, if they did I could just buy a new one and glue it on myself.