Almost certainly option 1
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Here is my modified version of this project:
Wired up for my specific needs (So USB with 5VS + on/off button with LED) to a 8 pin low profile FPC.
It is worth noting that JLCPCB will allow ordering of the mezzanine connector in a moq of only 10 at just under $2 a part. (JLCPCB Part #:C3643393). So these can be ordered fully assembled from JLCPCB.
It should be fairly trivial to add extra pinouts with a bigger FPC connector if you so desire.
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Hi Josh, can you upload a photograph of your version of the input shim & any further info either here or to your website please? Thanks
Can the shim provide up to 500 mA at the 5VS pin? I’d be curious about trying it with a simple USB 2.0 hub.
I believe so. The FPC cables are typically rated for 500mA, and the pins on the mezzanine connector are also 500mA.
I am actually connecting the USB on mine to a 2 port version of this PCB usb hub: Tiny USB Hub - 4 Port – RETROCUTION and it works well, I have a USB touch screen and a Arduino Leonardo Beetle attached to it.
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Hello, I’m looking in to ordering some of these boards for myself as part of a Home Server project, but I’m very new to all this and having some trouble ordering the boards from JLCPCB. I was able to get the Gerber and BOM from your OSHWLab post, but they are also asking for a CPL file as well that I cannot seem to find. Can you provide this, or help me understand where to get it from OSHWLab?
The CPL file is the ‘Pick and Place’ file. I have only ever done this from EasyEDA designer, which you should be able to import the oshlab project into.
You are likely to have to order the mezzanine connector to your jlcpcb account before you can get the boards made.
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Thanks! I have pre-ordered the mezzanine connector like you mentioned, appreciate your help!
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Annoyingly there was no solder mask between the input cover connector pins making it very close to impossible to solder so I’ll have to get these remanufactured.
Turns out I need to add a remote power button to my CoolerMaster. (Hiding it behind the TV is great… until you need to power it on).
@Josh_Cook did you fix the soldermask? Got any parts you’d want to sell?
Or are there any other ways to add a power button? I can do a JLPCB order, but I’d probably rather buy a Beelink or some other SFF first.
I’m trying to make one with an usb2.0 hub and fingerprint in it but since this is the first time making a pcb i’m not sure.
Especially the placement of pins for the mainboard connector, can somebody tell me if i’m in the right ?
Hmm, your symbol is numbered counterclockwise, and Framework does give Amphenol’s counterclockwise numbering, yet it doesn’t seem to match. To start with, Framework says USB_DM and USB_DP should be 31 and 30 respectively, in counterclockwise. Is your footprint also numbered counterclockwise same as your symbol?
Yes, I have mismatch the connector 10156000-051100LF instead of 10156001-051100LF so I’ll rework that (and re-preorder the good one 
)
Yeah, the pins seem fine now.
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Hey mate do you still have any stock of these?
Hello, I just remembered I didn’t give an update on my trials 
- My first try was very bad since I had not verified the footprint of 10156001-051100LF (so bottom and top pins are reversed on the PCB).
- My second is a little better:
- GOOD:
- Power switch/LED are working correctly.
- BAD:
- 5VALW doesn’t seem to have enough “power” to power the USB hub SL2.1A correctly (drops to 4.8V).
- The two USB C ports on the left are too close to be used at the same time.
I need to test some fixes to confirm if I’m right, and when I’m confident enough, go for a third round.
- GOOD:
List of tests to be done:
- Use 5VS instead of 5VALW for SL2.1A only.
- Use 5VS instead of 5VALW for the entire board.
Wow. This is exactly what I need for my project where I put the mainboard in an old laptop case from 1989. I hope I can buy one from you soon 
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