Yeap! That makes sense though I don’t really care on that issue. It’s their business and I would have bought it whatever colour. Just glad it wasn’t plastic 
Wood would be good. Did you see the cardboard 13" ?
Sure but I can’t see anyone doing it for you until you’ve done the dismantling.
yes, the business i am working with will not accept it if everything plastic and electronics are not removed.
yah i am not seeing the plastic tray for directing the wires along the bottom of chassis as a stand alone part.
Back to DIY then
i do not think i would prefer anodizing over powder coat. the anodizing does deal with acid so it could damage anything plastic still attached as you have to submerge the part in solution. seems like whatever you do that creates best adhesion will require removing everything not intended for extreme temps or chemicals.
The bottom isn’t aluminum.
For the top, if you’re doing DIY anodizing at least, you might be able to avoiding removing plastic, but iirc some foreign metals can contaminate the process. Perhaps you can just seal them off rather than remove. I’ve seen masking / sealing sections done for anodizing patterns or designs, like splatter anodizing. Speaking of which, a splatter anodized cover would be glorious.
It seems to be the other way around. Non-target metal parts can be damaged, or potentially contaminate the process. Plastics, tho, don’t seem to be an issue. Home anodizing is normally done inside whatever random plastic bucket you have available. The actual anodizing step, and the prior step of using a dilute acid to prep the aluminum surface, both just done in a plastic bucket. Some acids are stored in plastic. Draino, which home anodizers sometimes use for the acid prep step, is sold in plastic bottles. Diluted battery acid, another easy to get option, also kept in plastic.
The magnets you would need to either mask / seal off, or extract, perhaps with a large neodymium magnet to pull them out.
I dont think framework sells those individually, if they did I could just buy a new one and glue it on myself.
Powder coating will kill plastic too. I removed literally everything except the bare metal and magnets. With powder coating you have the option of only doing the outside though which is less risky
that was my thoughts too. meaning ability to do one side only.
depends on the plastic. Lol, just ask Mr. Heisenberg!!
Other way around for Heisenberg / Breaking Bad. He told Jessie to buy a plastic tub for dissolving the body in. Jessie ignored that & dumped the body and acid in a regular bathtub.
But that was a TV show. And as is often the case with TV writers, the details, exact information was just made up / wrong.
reality and tv never touch spheres
Well not really. If you read some of the test in the link.
Note that lye is used which is an alkali not an acid.
An example is I made lye from wood ash solely to make hominy from maize I grow.
The ash is boiled in a stainless steel container as an aluminium one would corrode a little and taint the lye.
So
Then to store the lye High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) or Polypropylene (PP) is used as there are not effected by lye / potash / Ca 2(OH) / KOH etc. Glass is slightly affected so not used for storage.
So
i was just bringing up possible problems with that option to consider before trying. I also want a specific look that anodizing doesn’t give. From reading about the process and using it on different metals or alloys. most commercial services use different strength acids to have different structure of the oxide that is created through electrochemical process. aluminum is best with acidic solution and magnesium can be done with acid or base. the growth of the oxide layer is determined by the ph of the solution and the voltage applied. if dyeing is needed they have to stick with more acidic solutions to create the holes/drills where the dye will collect and then covered with sealant as the dye will come off. there are some solutions that does not create holes so you get a color of just the oxide only as dye will not adhere. I pulled this from a book on finishing: “the ‘colors’ of most magnesium anodizing processes are not aesthetic”. the oxide on the aluminum is going to look very different to the oxide on the magnesium alloy. especially if the alloy is not consistent. so for the same thickness you could get different oxide colors. and repeatability is not something they can guarantee. the darker the oxide the darker the dye you have to use. so if you want to add a light color dye you need to make sure all the oxide is not darker than the dye as it will change the color going from light to dark oxide colors. and the color range per thickness is different from pure aluminum to aluminum alloys and magnesium to the magnesium alloy. color matching is going to be a huge pain. then talking about an at home process will never give you the level of precision needed to get both metal parts the same oxide color. which you will need to match the finished color after dye is applied and sealed. I will back off on the plastic and magnetic parts as there are several ways to mask them where no possible damage can occur from contact with solution by tape or waxes and such.
this is for results that are consistent between laptops and doubt the recycled aluminum would be a pure high grade version so oxides will be different color with different batches.
if you know a specific company that guarantees color matching of different metals then please pass along the link as i would really appreciate learning how they operate differently than others.
I forgot you wanted electric blue. And ideally a particular one matched to other items you already have.
I was thinking just black, as the OP has done. Differences in material is easier when you’re trying for basic black. I think you just flood it with max dye & hopefully the only differences you have are slight surface / flatness differences and maybe a slight hue difference under bright light. If you want different materials to match exactly, I think you do need to go for coatings rather than anodizing (or spend an unreasonable amount of time & effort matching anodizing in a one-off project). But anodizing has superior strength, resistance to wear. To deal with the different materials, I wouldn’t try to match. Electric blue splatter anodized lid for exciting pizzazz with a black base that just stays out of the way visually.
if your intended color is black you can reach that for both metals but there will be some differences which will become evident when finished.
another quote i found :
" While both aluminum and magnesium can be black anodized, achieving the exact same finish on both metals is not guaranteed due to inherent differences in their chemical composition, meaning the final black color might vary slightly between the two materials, even when using the same anodizing process; aluminum is generally considered the better choice for consistent black anodizing results."
also OP did not anodize but rather used powder coating to achieve his look.