It might latch on overheat.
You are unplugging the battery while running?! Pretty sure you are not supposed to do that.
Anyway, vrm overheat is just one possible source of prochot that is somewhat non-obvious because you usually don’t get access to the sensors.
Well I am probably not supposed to do that, but I don’t think it can damage anything, I don’t do it regularly but it seemed a like a good step for diagnostic. I changed the board, so anything on the board is very unlikely - what is the chance of having 2 boards with the same issue?
What I transferred: RAM, SSD, Windows 11 installation , battery and peripherals. Assuming it’s nothing on the board, peripherals are easy to test, it can be maybe some faulty driver, RAM overheating but I can measure that with IR thermometer (it isn’t), SSD overheating (it isn’t) and battery overheating. That was the most likely cause as the battery was placed where it could get warm. So I went for the most likely cause and unplugged the battery and it stopped. If it were VRM, they would cool down in seconds after switching to 400 MHz.
If something is overheating because of the airflow design it could happen with different boards.
Asuming prochot isn’t latching yes.
I am asuming replugging the power supply doesn’t snap it out of 400mhz?
Interesting. I am working on something that actually has the mainboard stacked on top of the battery (not touching of course and with a piece of silicon in-between to act as a heat break.) I am very mindful of the temps and have throttled Windows a lot in an effort to keep the temperature down. I have been using it like this for about 2 months now and have had zero issues.
13th Gen i7 and 61WH battery.
Damn how come this never occured to me?
I think I have two separate issues with BD Prochot. One is probably battery related and one is probably board related. If I limit the board in Throttlestop to 18W sustained and 24W boost, without battery it works perfectly OK. With battery it is a little problematic. I will explore the design with board on top of the battery as 2disbetter suggested and RMA the board (not the donated one, I bought a 12gen one which I am daily driving now) as there is clearly something wrong with it as well.
BTW the display I bought (1.5yr ago) seems to be a display from Surface GO 3 with some different touch. That´s just an interesting fact that might come in handy later.
You can always add fans to make things run cooler.
The challenge is routing the smallest amount of airflow so it also cools other bits of the board.
Heat spreaders can work, but that means you need aluminum not plastic. Those aluminum chassis probably contributed an insignificant amount.
I urgently need one for my university life. Plus I wish they can add 2 slot storage for the future mainboard.
Hello guys, I am still looking to revisit this project, mainly because my old display stopped working some time ago (probably issue with some of the cables) and I also finally have some money to play around with projects again (with average income in my country, 200 dollars here are as difficult to earn as 1000 dollars in USA or Canada, so everytime I buy things for the project and they don´t work I get a bit demotivated and set the project aside until I again set aside enough money to spend on my projects).
Last time I revisited the project (some half year ago) I set myself a condition for continuing this project - finding plug n play display that would connect via the onboard eDP and for the touch, would use USB.
Why? I have daily driven the tablet for long enough to find out that using portable display as main tablet display is just a bit painful and it stacks over time. Sometimes it stays on and empties the battery, sometimes it doesn´t turn on when it should, Windows can´t control the brightness so you have to have extra board and buttons for that, the cables are never the correct length and take up a lot of space inside. The cables eventually got somehow damaged and the display started turning off randomly.
I started a topic to consult the compatibility of a display I found - BOE NV110WTM-N61, it would make the size of the tablet larger by up to 1cm, but I think it should work with the board (more here: Alternative screens for FW13 - please add and comment ) and currently I am looking for a digitizer with USB interface. It´s a pretty similar solution to my current (not used anymore) display (link is posted in the parts list for the project) which is basically BOE NV105WAM-N31 with a digitizer panel glued on top of it with USB interface. I would use the BOE NV105WAM-N31 but it has a 50-pin eDP connector. I even have a 40 pin to 50 pin adapter as the board supplied with the BOE NV105WAM-N31 has 40 pin eDP output for a ribbon cable, but the seller of the display wasn´t willing to provide the pinout of the board and second, I don´t know how I would turn the FW mainboard eDP output into a ribbon cable connector. If anyone has ideas how to help with that, I would consider that option as well as my current display already has a touch digitizer with USB interface.