Keyboard repeating and missing letters, mostly one key (d)

Beware, by weight Aerogel is very expensive.

Good news, it weighs almost nothing :joy:

I got 20x20cm sheet on Amazon for ~20€. It was 0.5mm thick, I thought that I could always stack it, but buying it too thick would not work.

Couldn’t find anything on such a small scale, so it was my best option. Would recommend tho, FW keyboards are expensive.

I hope that for Gen2 they fix this problem. Many people RMA their keyboard because of this.

Maybe it’s that I’m in Aussie I’m having issues finding sheets of aerogel…. (Or it’s just me lol)

Could you link the what you bought or what the name they called it in amazon

what I keep finding is medical stuff :frowning:

Well, it was amazon.it (I’m Italian) so I don’t know if the link is going to be useful for you down there…

But here it is: Aerogel 0.5mm Thick Cotton Insulation Pad High Temperature Resistant Tear Resistant Waterproof Pad for Scientific Demonstration Study (20x20cm) : Amazon.it: Computers

Thank you, at this point everything is usefull :slight_smile:

Hmmm must be Aussie thing I can’t find anything like it here on the Aussie Amazon.

Closest I can find is : Rova aerogel

(changed the link I had linked to something that was too thick)

But it’s 3mm thick which I think might be little on the thick side

Just noticed this thread, and I’ve been having a similar problem since my hardware and firmware upgrades last year.

I’m on Windows 11, and lately I’ve been getting multiple presses frequently with the keys on the right side of the main keyboard. I’ve noticed this mostly with o, period, and comma.

I don’t know if this is due to the firmware upgrade on the keyboard itself, or due to the CPU and GPU change (since I upgraded both).

You might want to check if the failing keys aren’t all from the same row/column:

Or here for the full list:

I’m typing this on a keyboard I received as a replacement under warranty, because in the original none of the keys from one of the rows would work. In this one the “d” key started failing.

Have had this issue on two keyboards so far. First one was the A key, this one’s the D key. I suspect the switches are prone to wearing out with extended presses, especially at higher temperatures, such as, for example, when playing Terraria (a 2D sidescrolling game) and using the A and D keys extensively for most movement. Terraria isn’t even particularly computationally demanding, but the laptop still gets quite hot.

Needless to say, it’s not great for a $3,000 product.

I’ve recently have been getting issues with my keyboard too. Just yesterday my D key stopped giving inputs while I was gaming and nothing I did could fix it. I think it starts to happen when my laptop heats up but I’m not sure. it’s not happening right now. I’ve also had issues with my shift and W key for a while now. My shift key just doesn’t register sometimes and my W key does this strange thing where if I hold it for long period like running in-game it just continues to give input after I let go. The time it continues to input depends on how long I’ve been holding too. I’ve had it last like several seconds once. I did update my keyboard not too long ago too. Btw I’m also using Windows 11 if that changes anything.

Has anyone yet tried to dissect a keyboard to see if there is any material reason for the issue? If I ever get around to getting a new keyboard I would dissect my old one. Mainly I am afraid the new one would eventually have the same issue after gaming for a while…

Has that layer of aerogel improved the situation for anyone?

I haven’t opened up my old one, but I have tried an insulating layer to see if heat protection will keep the replacement from suffering the same issue this time.

I will note, the keyboard is much cooler in use with the layer in there, I stuck mine directly on top of the midplate instead of between the heatsink/midplate. I didn’t bother to cover all the keyboard span, just directly over the heatsink area on the left side

I will be dissecting mine as yesterday I pulled the trigger and ordered a new keyboard. I also have the original that was broken from the get go, so I can practice removing keycaps on it.

I have a hypothesis as to what might be going on here: the carbon pill that’s inside went loose somehow.

EDIT: I’ve removed the keycap and hinge from my previous keyboard and there’s no carbon pill to speak of. More likely it’s designed like the one in this clip:

The rubber dome presses on a metal contact and if there’s any break in the circuit, the key won’t work.

Yesterday I put a few of those double-sided stickers used in glow in the dark plastic stars you stick to the wall of a child’s room and the D-key was completely unresponsive, so I removed them.

Today on a whim I started holding the laptop upside down(at a slight angle). The key was still behaving somewhat erratically, but way less than previously - most importantly it was registering keystrokes much more often. Rotating the laptop to its default position made the D key mostly stop responding again. Tried it several times and it was consistent.

A moment ago I also just laid the laptop upside down for a while and after turning it right side up and turning on, after a few minutes of glitching the key started working normally.

It’s strange. This key was mostly dead yesterday.

One more topic about this same issue: Framework 16 7040 keyboard key not working

Has anyone yet tried to dissect a keyboard to see if there is any material reason for the issue? Has that layer of aerogel improved the situation for anyone?

I shot some photos with a thermal camera, but there doesn’t seem to be any excessive heat points directly under or around the affected keys (W, E, D, CapsLock). I couldn’t reliably link the issue to the temperature in general either, as the keys being mostly dead still work some time, and their reliability doesn’t seem to correspond to the system load & temperature.

far left corner where the affected E, W, D keys are (upside-down, closer):

I’ve observed the same thing. My first guess was that it was thermal related when mine failed, but I also was unable to find strong evidence of this. There’s a hotspot, sure, but there’s also an airgap between that hotspot and the temperature. Plus there’s a hotspot on the other side of the keyboard as well that’s not resulting in failures… granted, that side of the keyboard doesn’t have WASD.

I’m pretty sure heat is part of the cause because I was in contact with support, and I needed to replicate the issue in a video. The easiest way I got it to happen was to just run a benchmark to warm up the laptop and then use a hairdryer on the keyboard. The I key issue was way more extreme than if I had just used the heat from the laptop.

Can anyone replicate the issue if they power their laptop using a powerbank? Just curious if this could be caused by noise from the electric grid (I had the same issue with a Thinkpad with one key permanently triggering, and if I unplug it from the electric grid and use a powerbank the issue goes away).

I got the issue on battery power

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Isn’t the midplate reflective?

I don’t believe the camera’s you guys are using is properly picking up the midplate temperature. Look at the decals with the contributors showing 20 degrees hotter in those photos, that midplate surface shouldn’t be that different in temperature. I’d guess that with the heatsink layout, the WASD side of the keyboard gets more heat than the right side. The left heatsink is connected with 2 heatpipes while the right only has 1.

There’s a large plate that comes off the 2 right around the WASD area too, while the right side is pushed slightly up by the RAM mounts. I’d guess that the left side of the keyboard gets a lot more heat exposure as the heatsink plate makes some contact with the midplate which then heats up directly under the common hand placement location pressure point.

*Corrected right v left lol

F, yeah, you’re right. The hot spots are the same spots where there’s stickers tacked on. I spent months looking into some of the physics behind thermal imaging, and I entirely forgot that the midplate is made of aluminum, which is very reflective within the thermal imagine wavelength.

It stopped completely in my case over a week ago. Granted, for gaming I now use an external keyboard, but I had no issues during normal usage since.

I think it’s just these little metal contacts getting stuck together and heat excaberating the issue.

Sheets such as the ones pictured above are often made out of PET, which becomes soft well below temperatures seen in chips under heavy load.

What helped in my case was holding the laptop upside down as it’s running, pressing the offending keys for several minutes in this position and then leaving it turned off upside down for a while.